With respect to volts, if you have sub-zero cooling, you can push upto about 2.0V. When you start your PC, the fluctuation from no voltage (off) to 1.X V induces an extreme amount of heat, especially in the 90nm chips. Because the power management doesn't come into effect until POST (or sometimes Windows), this is where most failures occur, or as Windows is loading. With sub-zero cooling, the effects are significantly reduced, sometimes even reversed. That's why those
OC's are so stable. the only problem is the power-draw they use, and the price (although that all in one kit in the other thread is only about £80). The nearest thing to a TEC/Peltier, are heatpipes. And the more heatpipes you have, the closer you'll get to ambient temperature. Heatpipes are also the best passive air cooling you can get (currently they are anyway).
As for motherboards, Epox are awesome overclockers and they don't cost an arm and a leg. My 9NPAJ SLI is awesome at overclocking. Most
OC'ing problems aren't with the CPU's, chipsets, or graphics clocks. It lies with cheap memory. I mean, even the 2Gb GeIL i have isn't great at stability, but when it gets pushed, it's incredibly fast. I mean, ATM, the memory speed is at 245Mhz at 3-4-4-9-1T. Yeah, the timings are crap, but since it tends to handle clocks better, i decided that to get similar effects to low timings, i would have to get a decent clock speed out of them. And whattaya know, it's fine.
As for CPU's, i've found that setting the max multiplier you can and then upping the clock speed works. But you should set your RAM divider down a step just to get it stable. Then up the CPU a bit more. If you go unstable and you are sure it's not you're ram, set the CPU multi down a step (1 Multi step = 0.5).
Anyway, i think i've rambled on enough
