View Single Post
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 9th July, 2008, 08:16 PM
Azriel's Avatar
Azriel Azriel is offline
Join Date: September 2001
Location: Clifton, Illinois
Posts: 1,657
Send a message via ICQ to Azriel

Cutting thick plexi:

jigsaw with the orbit completely turned down. Orbit will make your cuts wander badly. You need to have the blade fast enough to clear the chips by inertia, but not too fast, so you don't friction melt the plexi. Plexi melts at a lot lower temperature than the polycarbonate I normally use, but it is doable. Coat it with painters tape before you work with it to avoid scratching. If it already has a protective coating it will do fine.

If you have better tools, a scroll saw is ideal for holes, and a table saw with a 60 tooth or higher blade for straight cuts, grooves and bevels. (preferably a 200 tooth because it has splayed teeth, and keeps the body of the blade from rubbing.) Do not use a router with plexi unless it can be run wet. NEVER use a hole saw on plexi thicher than .118/.125.

I am an artist with a dynafile, but you probably shouldn't use one unless you are very skilled with them.

If you have an air compressor, an air gun can keep your blade cooled on tools that are not tolerant of water. A solvent siphon air gun will give you a very fine mist of water that will cool better than flooding the cut, and will not hurt your power tools.

You can use a cheap $40 tile saw with a 7" circle saw blade as a table saw. You will have to clamp on a board for a fence. The big plus here is that this saw is designed to be used with water on the blade.
A64 3800+ Dual Core/GF8800GT-512/2gig DDR/10,000 RPM Raptor SATA 36gig HDD, 250gig 1394b/28" LCD

Last edited by Azriel; 9th July, 2008 at 08:22 PM.
Reply With Quote