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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 5th November, 2002, 07:29 PM
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Confusing Xp1800+ unlock

Hi everyone. I spent the best part of an afternoon trying to unlock my XP1800+. I'm using Electrocure electrical conductive paint and silicone compound in the laser cuts.

As the afternoon progressed I got better and better at making what seemed to be perfect contacts with no shorting across bridges. I kept at it because I could never select a whole range of multipliers. I could either get 11x,or 12X as well as the default 11.5. Now I've selected 9X in the bios but in the POST and WCPUID is shows up as 7.5X?

As far as I am aware do I only have to connect all 5 L1 bridges?

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks.
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Old 6th November, 2002, 12:47 AM
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Well its close to midnight and still no luck, so I'm giving up for now. My defogger kit must be crappy! Cant be me can it!?
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Old 6th November, 2002, 05:52 PM
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Might be your silicone compound. Take a look at the video at Unlocking you CPU . This walkthrough helped me do several CPUs in one afternoon. I only had to redo them each 2 or 3 times with just mild cursing.
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Old 8th November, 2002, 01:26 AM
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it can be a wind up mate. keep at it. my unlock went bad the other day on 9x and 10x. redid it and was still bad on the same multipliers even though all tracks i did were good with a multimeter, and no cross-bridging. redid it again and was fine. i'd use superglue to fill in the pits though...

make sure you give the paint a good shake, as i've done one before that had one bridge conducting really badly cos i didn't enough. good luck fella, and don't give up
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Old 8th November, 2002, 11:33 AM
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Also I believe a protective coating may be applied to the contacts. I always get better results after LIGHTLY sanding the L1's and i do mean lightly as just under the surface is a copper layer that if exposed makes it more or less impossible to unlock correctly. Another tip is to poke the contact through the ink as you apply it (you can feel the different texture) after doing this it made My L5 mod work, I bhink perhaps as the contacts are in a slight recess, and sanding only reduces that a little, the surface tension of the ink prevents it from making contact.
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Old 8th November, 2002, 11:45 AM
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aye, i usually get the tip of the scalpel blade into the contact point (as they're slightly concave) and give it a little scrape to make sure there's a good conductive surface exposed.

is a real biatch when all the tracks you paint check out good on a multimeter, but there's one not making contact under the paint, grrr

mm, surface tension and the concave contacts - good point mate.
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Old 8th November, 2002, 10:27 PM
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Most definately, "lightly sand" the contacts 1st.

Personally, I used "white out" to fill the pits in my CPU.
Much easier.

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Old 9th November, 2002, 08:00 PM
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Talking

Ok its the weekend again, time to give it another shot.
I'm going to try and use Clear nail polish to fill in the laser traces, then I can remove it with......you guessed it, nail polish remover!!!
Did I mention that I tipped my jar of defogger all over my lap last weekend? What a mess.
If I do get it done, I'll post WCPUID screen shots as proof:-D
Which leads me on to my next question, where does WCPUID save its screen shots/bitmaps?

Watch this space and thanks for the advice and encouragement.
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Old 10th November, 2002, 02:03 AM
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Talking

I believe the term is w00t!
Well its 1am, I stuck at it and on the third attempt I've nailed it good and proper.

I used "Maximum Growth" clear nail polish to fill in the trenches after carefully masking the L1 contacts with sellotape. I used the finest needle you have ever seen, dipped in the dregs of my defogger repair kit, and connected the bridges.
I've tesed Multipliers from 9.5X to 13X and its all ok.:-D

I'm currently at 12.5X, 1670.45MHz. I know its not much but its a start!
How do I get these screenshots up as evidence?

:-D
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Old 10th November, 2002, 02:19 AM
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good one mate. glad you're sorted. to grab a screeny just go in WCPUID and do "save bitmap"
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Old 10th November, 2002, 03:07 AM
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Got the screeny saved but cant upload it! keep getting errors. I take it use the Attach File option?
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Old 10th November, 2002, 03:15 AM
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if you can host the pic somewhere just use IMG tags
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Old 10th November, 2002, 03:44 AM
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Nope,cant host the pic. Never mind though, its done and there's as mighty big smile on my face tonight! Thanks for your help.
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Old 10th November, 2002, 03:50 AM
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no prob. have fun mate
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Old 10th November, 2002, 12:46 PM
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Hey kowalski, do you run your system overclocked all the time, or just for certain applications?
I've noticed somehting strange since I've unlocked, I can run my memory at FASTEST now. Before it would crash and I'd get BSOD's all the time. I'm going to see how stable it is then maybe try for Turbo settings.
How noisy is your SLK and Smartfan when OC'd? I've got a Coolermaster Silent Heatpipe with a 60mm fan, but I'd like to get an 80mm silent fan soon. What would you recommend?
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Old 10th November, 2002, 03:25 PM
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I'm at 10X166 now! What a great sight seeing the PCI/AGP frequencies going back to defaults at 166! I was worried for a minute.
What a great board!


:-D
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Old 10th November, 2002, 05:11 PM
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Lazgoat, what stepping is your CPU? My old XP1800+ ran out of steam at 1610mhz! it was an AGKGA Y
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Undergoing overhaul. Hard Locking to 13.5X multiplier for theoretical clockrate of 1944mhz 144mhz FSB

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1X Celeron 1000mhz

1X Pentium3 450 DECEASED

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Old 10th November, 2002, 05:40 PM
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hey mate, glad to see your board's giving you better and better stuff

i generally keep mine running at 179x10, as this chip'll do it 100% stable on 1.85v. the fsb is slightly aggressive on these boards so it actually gives me exactly 1800MHz in WCPUID.

i would push it a little more on the fsb, but my scores were actually dropping a bit as soon as i put the fsb to 180, as i think Epox relax the mem timings slightly here to give a bit of stability as you get higher. the chip'll actually do around 1900 but needs 2.1v or more, so i'm not gonna keep it running full-time on that, even though my load temps are still only around 44C there...

i'm not into using 1/2 multipliers really, so 179x10 does seem to be the sweet spot at the moment, as my memory wont let me get to 200x9.

The SmartfanII is pretty quiet if you use the temp sensor on it - i never gets up to full whack, as this requires 55C, but it'll keep the temps in acceptable levels. I tend to use the manual speed adjustment, and vary it from 3000rpm (quiet) to max, 4800 (pretty loud, but 76CFM airflow!!) depending what i'm doing.

i'd definitely recommend this fan, as they're only about 11 quid. with the SLK-800 it's a very decent air cooling setup. my idle/load temps at 1800MHz vary from 29/34 to 33/38 depending on room temp. i've got one as a case intake fan too, but i generally run with the side off my case anyway...

btw, check yer PM Lazgoat...
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Last edited by kowalski; 10th November, 2002 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 10th November, 2002, 06:50 PM
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Hey RN, my CPU is as follows,

AMD Athlon
AX1800DMT3C
AGOIA 0225APGW
91219760866

I dont know what the last string of numbers is, anyone know?

kowalski, I got this baby to 175 FSB this afternoon with 1.8Vcore and 2.7 Vmem. It would run 3D Mark2K1 only intermittently.
I noticed that at 166FSB, I suppose running the mem sync, I got markedly lower 3D Mark scores. The scores went up at 170FSB and higer still at 175. Last check was 11,963. Gotta break that 12K!
I'm looking at that SmartFan right now, I've not seen it anywhere else either. Where's the credit card.......:-D
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Old 10th November, 2002, 08:05 PM
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AGOIA are usually good for 1700 Mhz at least Keep up the good work!
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Dual XP1600+ AGOIA "Y" @ 1875mhz WATERCOOLED 33C LOAD

Undergoing overhaul. Hard Locking to 13.5X multiplier for theoretical clockrate of 1944mhz 144mhz FSB

1X Duron 1.3 AHCLA "9" @ 1430mhz

1X Celeron 1000mhz

1X Pentium3 450 DECEASED

Folding Under AOA-UK for team 45!



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