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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 3rd May, 2004, 03:12 AM
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Well, that lasted all of what, a month?

I can't help it; I like to tinker.

I took my block back out, tweaked it, and I'm back to running my Direct-Die block again. Main reason being that, although the DangerDen RBX block works VERY well, my Direct-Die block works slightly better (with the tweak that I made). Number two reason is that with my Direct-Die block, I can't chip my CPU cores the way I did yesterday with the RBX. It's not physically possible. While it <IS> a pain in the behind to change CPUs, I can live with that.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 3rd May, 2004, 04:28 AM
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You lft out "because I can":O}
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 3rd May, 2004, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel ~
You lft out "because I can":O}
Oh, that. I figured that was self evident. Thank you for proving me right. LOL
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 3rd May, 2004, 06:46 AM
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Can't make mods or tweaks with out pics, hint hint ;-)
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 3rd May, 2004, 07:22 AM
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Yeah, yeah. I know. I'll tear it down far enough tonight so that I can get a couple pics.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 5th May, 2004, 04:01 AM
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Here's a pic of the new nozzle configuration. I'm not quite sure why this picture is in black and white, and I know my photography stinks, so just cut me some slack on that, ok?

This design is about 5C cooler than my RBX under the same conditions, and is MUCH easier for me to make than my previous designs. Given the amount of power I am pushing at this point (about 135 watts), that means that I am able to handle another 50 watts or so of power.

Basically, what I did was I took my 1/2" tubing, and shaped about the last 3/4" of it into a rectangle that was approximately the size of the core (rather similar to my first design, actually). Then I cut the corners with my dremel and folded the long sides into the center until I had a slit about 1/16" wide, while leaving the short sides untouched to form 'ears' which help me seat the jet at the proper distance from the base inside my plastic cube. I then brazed the seam between the folded part and the straight part so that water had no choice but to exit through the slit over the core.

I came up with this approach because I was sitting one night thinking about my results up to this point, and realized that at least part of the reason I had gotten better results with the 4 jet job over the 8 jet job was probably because I had too many jets; the water was getting in the way of itself. I had lots of turbulence, but the warm water wasn't being efficiently removed from the path of the cool water. So I reasoned that the ideal jet would probably be something along this line in design; a stream that covers the center of the core and then spreads out along the surface to the edges, where it is removed.

I could really, REALLY use a simulator, but I don't know enough about hydrodynamics at this point to write my own (as Cathar supposedly did) and all the ones I've come across on the net are either written for Unix and don't have source code, or have some heinous licensing agreement to get the source code, or cost lots of money.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 5th May, 2004, 04:18 AM
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Lets get wet! ":O}

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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 6th May, 2004, 01:16 AM
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Any chance of a pic from a different or wider angle?
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 6th May, 2004, 01:38 AM
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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmaybe.

What are you looking for, specifically? Bear in mind that I'll have to tear my rig apart to get the pic, so it may be a few days. I'll be happy to get you all the pics you want, I just don't want to tear the thing apart every three days. At least, no so I can take pictures. LOL
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 7th May, 2004, 09:07 PM
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Well, I got two more procs; mobile 2400+ this time, AQYHA stepping. We'll see how they do. I'm gonna tear the rig apart tonight and see how they run, and I'll get you some pics while I'm at it, danrok.
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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 8th May, 2004, 04:55 PM
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New pics. This time they are actually in focus. WARNING! These pics are about 450K each.
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Direct-Die water cooling-may08003.jpg   Direct-Die water cooling-may08004.jpg   Direct-Die water cooling-may08005.jpg  
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 8th May, 2004, 06:26 PM
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Much better pics! Still not good pics, but much BETTER pics thanks! ":O}

Just remember. every guy without a camra,...becomes a critic!
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 8th May, 2004, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the pics! I am now a little less confused.

How does the cube attach to the board/cpu?

What is it made of?
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 8th May, 2004, 07:14 PM
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The cube is made of 1/8" plexi. The four sides are each 2" square, and the top and bottom are 2 1/8" square. The inlet, outlet, and cpu seat are set in the exact center of each face. Originally, the inlet and outlet were both the gray PVC 1/2" MPT connectors. However, the inlet connector had to be torn apart when I changed the nozzle arrangement, so I replaced it with a piece of regular threaded PVC so that I could then thread in whatever pipe fitting took my fancy.

The cube attaches to the cpu via an extremely complex mounting mechanism :

two pieces of 1/2" wide 1/8" steel, 3" long run the width of the block and attach via 3" 8x20 machine screws to the mobo (very similar to the way the RBX WB attaches, actually).

You don't see it in the picture because I didn't have it on there yet, but there is a water gasket made of 1/8" closed cell insulating foam which goes over the bottom of the cube. This seals the cube to the CPU so that there are no water leaks, without making the cube installation permanent.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 27th July, 2004, 03:56 AM
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Been doing some more experiments, this time with the coolant.

As I've mentioned elsewhere, one of my goals is to eventually build a water chiller for this system. However, I intend to get into the realm of -20C or so, which means I can't use water as my coolant.

My initial coolant was a mixture of water and a product called 40 Below from AutoZone (similar to Water Wetter). This stuff does what it is designed to do. It does it a bit too well. It builds up a protective film on the surface of the CPU that prevents corrosion. Unfortunately, the power density of the CPU core is such that it actually BAKES the stuff onto the core. Note to self: This stuff is not a good idea for direct-die water cooling.

So then I tried a mixture of about 10% Isopropyl alcohol and water. That seemed to work pretty well, so I upped the mixture to 70%.

Seems that Isoproply alcohol and Plexiglass (the material my water block is made out of) have an adverse reaction.

Seems that Isopropyl alcohol and plastic cement also have an adverse reaction. This isn't too surprising, since the glue is based on acetone and the same plastic as the plexi.

Seems that Isoproply alcohol and Silicone rubber also have an adverse reaction.

My water block shattered and disintegrated into a pile of plastic shards in about 5 minutes. Fortunately, my system wasn't running.

On the positive side, I did find out how to get that darned Silicone rubber to release materials it has bonded to.

So now I've got to build a new block out of something a bit more solid than Plexi.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 28th July, 2004, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gizmo
My water block shattered and disintegrated into a pile of plastic shards in about 5 minutes.
yikes... sorry to hear that. What was the liquid temperature you were feeding at that time?
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 28th July, 2004, 05:40 PM
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OUCH!! the alcahol has gotten me before also its like watching a cartoon the way the plexi spider cracks in front of you eyes and then turns to rubble !

I ran into the same wall with the plastics , and plumbers goop will do the same thing as well as any other alchahol based product.

I think copper is the real way to go on a D2D setup just to keep the metals in the system the same, but it takes some fancy machinery to cut that stuff.

did you ever see... I think it was Tom Pabst or someone tried to market one out of aluminum a couple years ago, but the design was all wrong and it did'nt work well or leaked or something.

Uncle Zeke is supposed to be getting a cnc benchtopper to cut aluminum bait molds with, if he does, maybe we can get him to do a couple copper ones !
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Old 28th July, 2004, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlyjoe
I think copper is the real way to go on a D2D setup just to keep the metals in the system the same, but it takes some fancy machinery to cut that stuff.
Yeah, that is what I was thinking as well. I've got a buddy who has a wire EDM machine that can cut that stuff precisely, so I may see if I can con him into cutting some for me that I can braze up.
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Old 28th July, 2004, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatever
yikes... sorry to hear that. What was the liquid temperature you were feeding at that time?
Just room temp, say about 30C. I've yet to build the chiller. That's a whole 'NUTHER set of problems.
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Old 28th July, 2004, 07:44 PM
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Just remember Thomas Edison had days like this - but from what I understand he deserved them ":O}
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