DFI Boards

[JMa2969]

Hey guys. I know there are a lot of DFI oc'ers out there and I wanted to know, are you guys having all the problems I have had. I went through a Lanparty Rev B (bios blew), two more untra infinities (bios' blown) an unstable Ultra Infinity and one that oc'ed great but wouldn't boot half the time until I hit the reset button after 10 seconds of not booting. I threw in my trusty but slow(will only hit 220 FSB instead of the 240+DFI) and have complete stability, the ability to flash my bios without fear, and a stable board to 32M places of SuperPi (and I can run up to 2700Mghz on air, but my temps get high after 2600 for everyday use).
Just interested to hear other opinions from the DFI fanbase as to their experiences. I wouldn't mind hearing from the Abit team about any positives about the NF7-S or the AN7 either. Have a good one all;
Tim

[cadaveca]

i have the board in my sig.. ican set the fsb to 600mhz(2x300)..haven't tried yet mind you, but the option is there should i ever want to.
the big thing i find attractive about the lanparty boards, is the uv sensitive slots...very nice effect...

[bETAbILLY]

If you could buy DDR600 memory, you would have wasted your money because the high latency settings required for 300mhz would make your puter perform real slow.

[danrok]

My DFI board looks good too, glows in the dark etc. Not much use for anything else!

I sacked it and switched to a cheap NF7. Looks boring but works great.

[JMa2969]

My AN7 has the 300Mhz FSB option. It wont top 220 with the ram I have but it runs nice at that. The one DFI I had that wouldn't boot half the time was a real barnstormer, as it hit 240 with the same ram and latencies as I have posted in my sig, but wouldn't boot. Well, it would, but only after letting it set 10 seconds and then hitting reset (that has to be a bios issue). If they had a board that worked better and overclocked like that one I would consider going back, but for now around 2700Mhz and a 220 Clock Speed (440FSB) are good enough, and hot enough for me (I usually just run mine at 210x11.5 for around 2420Mghz, yeah I know the numbers should be 2415 but my board always gives a little more than set at). Too bad about the DFI's though, as they are really on to something if they could get the bugs worked out.
Peace;
Tim

[XeroHouR]

I have the great 2.4gighz topped system. My DFI lanparty Rev A(which is no where on the internet what-so-ever) with mobile barton 2600 won't come up at 2.4 gighz and do anything, at 2.37-2.39 it goes haywire. I've tried all voltages and all possible combinations of multipliers and FSB's which removes ram as a possibility, especially since I ran them asynchoniously ram at 166(its pc2700) at 2.4 and it still crashed with "Rising temperature caused L1-L2" in the event log. So its either the board that is bad or the CPU, and I really can't tell w/o another test board. I was told by the guy who had it before me he got his Barton up to 2.6 on air, and the previous owner of the CPU got it up to 2.6 with his water rig. So either someones lying or the CPU doesn't like the board -_-. Just one isolated experence like this can't sour your whole taste on a board though.

on a seperate note I might pick up an NF7-S some day if I land a job, and see if its the proc or mobo.

[whatever]

Originally Posted by JMa2969

My AN7 has the 300Mhz FSB option. It wont top 220 with the ram I have but it runs nice at that. The one DFI I had that wouldn't boot half the time was a real barnstormer, as it hit 240 with the same ram and latencies as I have posted in my sig, but wouldn't boot. Well, it would, but only after letting it set 10 seconds and then hitting reset (that has to be a bios issue). If they had a board that worked better and overclocked like that one I would consider going back, but for now around 2700Mhz and a 220 Clock Speed (440FSB) are good enough, and hot enough for me (I usually just run mine at 210x11.5 for around 2420Mghz, yeah I know the numbers should be 2415 but my board always gives a little more than set at). Too bad about the DFI's though, as they are really on to something if they could get the bugs worked out.
Peace;
Tim

maybe you don't know how to overclock the DFI board.

maybe you have been sticking with the old BIOS version, the factory one.

I remember reading your post a while back, you showed how scary it is to flash BIOS. You are one also said Winflash is the most dangerous way to flash. You feel so afraid to flash the bios using Winflash, maybe you are doing something wrong. Winflash is getting more popular and many users are happy with it. A lot of the times it's the user error that screws up the process or don't know what they are doing. Maybe you flashed the bios wrong. The orginal bios is most buggy and will cause more problems than the others.

A longggg................. time ago, I mentioned that the DFI boards have Lower grandtotal clocks than the Abit due to poor voltage regulations in the Vcore department. Another thing to consider is that in general(all boards) it's harder to overclock both HIGH FSBs and HIGH grand total clocks. Turn down the FSBs of the DFI, it will help a little bit on the top clocks.

Another thing you aren't trying to attempt to do is apply "more powerful cooling". You will need to provide more powerful cooling on the the CPU on the DFI board in order to match up with the Abit in grand total clocks, not FSBs.


You have not provided these things to make your DFI run better and more stable. Again, user problem.

[whatever]

Part I:

Originally Posted by JMa2969

Hey guys. I know there are a lot of DFI oc'ers out there and I wanted to know, are you guys having all the problems I have had. I went through a Lanparty Rev B (bios blew), two more untra infinities (bios' blown) an unstable Ultra Infinity and one that oc'ed great but wouldn't boot half the time until I hit the reset button after 10 seconds of not booting. I threw in my trusty but slow(will only hit 220 FSB instead of the 240+DFI) and have complete stability, the ability to flash my bios without fear, and a stable board to 32M places of SuperPi (and I can run up to 2700Mghz on air, but my temps get high after 2600 for everyday use).

your trusty but slow(blah blah blah..) what? You forgot the word "Abit NF7/s" or AN7? you left something out. Let's say your NF7/s as it is. Say what.. stable board? 32M superPi stable with your Abit? Didn't you say this before??:

Originally Posted by JMa2969

But doesn't all this add up to the 2500-M being the cream of the crop. It sure seems as though all that are posting are getting better results out of the 2500 than the 2600. And the 2400 is a little low for my tastes. And what is wrong with wanting a chip to overclock, this isn't the forum for consrvative clocking. This is the forum for the Alliance for the Advancement of the Overclocking Arts, after all. Isn't that why we are here, among other things? Sorry dude, not trying to flame you, but I for one, want a stable overclock (I just got an NF7-S v2.0 and it will not run 32M places on superpi no matter what I clock at, high, low, normal,, synced, unsynced, volted up or down. So, I am sending it back for a refund and am going to give DFI one more try, and pick up an NFII Ultra Infinity. My AN7 blows the doors off the NF7-S, and the screwy thing with the AN7, is that I FINALLY got the CPU interface to work and it dropped all my Sandra Scores through the floor[especially memory bandwidth, go figure, and not to flame Gizmo, but the cpu interface seemed more CPU oriented than memory, as to get ot to work I had to up the voltage on my CPU and dropp back to 333 FSB on the CPU. The memory settings had no effect at all]). Thanks again all;
Tim

Your post record: http://www.aoaforums.com/forum/showp...4&postcount=15 - April 26, 2004 2:07 AM

Make up your mind.. DFI or Abit?????? You said your Abit is not stable no matter what back then. Now it's the other way around. I think you are twisting words here. Trying to find excuse to smack down DFI. Nice going, chief.

Just interested to hear other opinions from the DFI fanbase as to their experiences. I wouldn't mind hearing from the Abit team about any positives about the NF7-S or the AN7 either. Have a good one all;
Tim

This guy is officially the spammer.




Part II: Oh and it's the Abit board that has more difficult time being stable at high FSBs especially in gaming. Most horrible boards I had. Major problem with the Abit nForce2 engineering is that they have made some radical change in memory stick compatibility in terms of overclockability. In many cases the NF7/s v2.0 boards that have been released recently hate Winbond BH-5 sticks. Once again, not all. There's always the luck and right hardware to fit the Abit board for nice high stable FSBs. Abit board is also so damn picky about CPU types as well. It only likes certain CPUs and modding is often necessary. Also the board itself isnt' designed for high FSBs and is weaker in the memory voltage options. DFI is made for high FSBs and is DAMN STABLE in gaming. The Abit boards can't do that, sorry. Ever since I moved onto DFI board, it was like heaven.. NO MORE UNSTABILITIES IN GAMING. DFI took care of it.


I'm not a kind of person who diss the other boards and talk good of my board. Wrong. I've been playing nice and did not talk bad about Abit boards. Now that you have been keep stirring up the mess and constantly talk trash about DFIs, well, it's my turn to talk bad about the Abit board.. gizmo owns Abit board so it is not comfortable for me to say it... but you... I make it an exception. Oh yeah, I heard a lot of bad things about Abit An7 boards how poorly it overclocks in FSBs. So hated by so many users. Nobody likes that board. Again, I kept dead quiet about talking trash about AN7 board until you came in here and spamming.


oh and don't even start about 300mhz FSB option in the bios. I'm not interested in that for either boards. Are you guys gonna show off who's got the top FSBs available in the BIOS?

[Aedan]

Originally Posted by whatever

Are you guys gonna show off who's got the top FSBs available in the BIOS?

Hey, I can manage a 999MHz FSB!

[XeroHouR]

i wish i had a stamp that says "owned" on it . I will try an abit board at some point, if not mine then someone else's. I'd like to see if one can put my barton over 2.4, but again you both really can't say ones better than the other, because you don't have 100 test boards. I wouldn't say a certain board is bad, despite its common usage in lots of systems happily, based on a few or one bad experience that you had...

[Maelstrom2160]

What decent air cooled heatsinks will fit on a infinity ultra though, atm it's the only thing thats putting me off buying one. I checked the compatability link on thermalrights website and noticed most of there heatsinks need a dodgy bottom plate to sit happy on a infinity ultra.

Any recommendations?

[XeroHouR]

on my Rev A I ran an ALX-800, it really wasn't a bad heatsink, since the Rev A has no mountin holes, the ALX-800 or any of the(correct me if I'm wrong) xxxU series, the ones with the clip mount, work great. With a vantec and the ALX-800 I got I think 43 idle 52 load up 450 mhz and at 1.75V. I'd say all that isn't too bad for a copperbase-aluminum fin Heatsink. I bet the all copper ones would be better.

[whatever]

Originally Posted by Maelstrom2160

What decent air cooled heatsinks will fit on a infinity ultra though, atm it's the only thing thats putting me off buying one. I checked the compatability link on thermalrights website and noticed most of there heatsinks need a dodgy bottom plate to sit happy on a infinity ultra.

Any recommendations?

yes.. some thermalright HS products don't fit on DFI Infinity/LP boards. Go to www.thermalright.com under accessories and neo backplates are available.

[Gizmo]

Originally Posted by whatever

yes.. some thermalright HS products don't fit on DFI Infinity/LP boards. Go to www.thermalright.com under accessories and neo backplates are available.

Is there any reason you can see that I wouldn't be able to use one of these plates for my DD block? I was just noticing the other day when I had it out that my screws are putting some horrible stress on the mobo (visibly bending it), and I'm looking for something that will retain my block with sufficient pressure without distorting my board in the process.

[whatever]

Originally Posted by gizmo

Is there any reason you can see that I wouldn't be able to use one of these plates for my DD block? I was just noticing the other day when I had it out that my screws are putting some horrible stress on the mobo (visibly bending it), and I'm looking for something that will retain my block with sufficient pressure without distorting my board in the process.

I'm not sure about the DangerDan blocks how they fit and what mounting tools to fit the board. Should be similar to D-tek TC-4 block I use.. Mine comes with mounting tools: 4 long screws, nuts, and 4 springs. Simply screw down each screw and nicely fits on mine. I don't put too much pressure though. It isn't necessary. Maybe try ease up little bit the tightening?

as for the neo backplates, i'm not sure... those plates are for the SLK & SP air HS series and not meant to fit the waterblocks. I've never tried it so im not sure.. However there are few mounting plates for the waterblocks in some other site but those are designed for their own type blocks...

[Gizmo]

I'm sorry. Not DD as in Danger Den, but DD as in Direct-Die.

The RBX that I have actually mounts pretty much the same way that my Direct-Die block does, which rather surprised me.

[bradmax57]

Originally Posted by whatever

I'm not sure about the DangerDan blocks how they fit and what mounting tools to fit the board. Should be similar to D-tek TC-4 block I use.. Mine comes with mounting tools: 4 long screws, nuts, and 4 springs. Simply screw down each screw and nicely fits on mine. I don't put too much pressure though. It isn't necessary. Maybe try ease up little bit the tightening?

as for the neo backplates, i'm not sure... those plates are for the SLK & SP air HS series and not meant to fit the waterblocks. I've never tried it so im not sure.. However there are few mounting plates for the waterblocks in some other site but those are designed for their own type blocks...

Is that a shopping basket??? but really that water looks cold, what sort of temp is that at?

[whatever]

Originally Posted by bradmax57

Is that a shopping basket??? but really that water looks cold, what sort of temp is that at?

yeah.

around zero C.

[bradmax57]

Originally Posted by whatever

yeah.

around zero C.

guess gravity is saving your mobo then, nice job

[whatever]

thanx.. bradmax.