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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 15th October, 2001, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by phiber

epoxy/durons/heatsinks dont go together
A battle of who's stronger, and the epoxy won...........
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 15th October, 2001, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Samuknow


A battle of who's stronger, and the epoxy won...........
it took me three days of 3 hour work to sand paper off the DIE of the duron off the heatsink
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 15th October, 2001, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by phiber

it took me three days of 3 hour work to sand paper off the DIE of the duron off the heatsink
Really GOOD epoxy...............
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 15th October, 2001, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Samuknow


Really GOOD epoxy...............
Arctic Silver Adhesive
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 20th October, 2001, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by phiber

Arctic Silver Adhesive
Sucks! Did you take the wrong tube, or how did that happen?
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 20th October, 2001, 03:05 PM
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Question What kind of paint works best?

I love to paint stuff and Daniel's been after me for years to coat over those ugly putty colored plastic and steel towers.

And now here's a place to get advice on what paints work best!

Would prefer low toxicity, and non-aerosol. What do you guys have to recommend? (available in the US) Tks.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 20th October, 2001, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Walter:-)


Sucks! Did you take the wrong tube, or how did that happen?
yea i got mis guided on which one to get
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 21st October, 2001, 10:56 PM
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Phiber.... for your lian-li aluminum case there.... Http://www.jinco.com has hot swap SCSI aluminum drive shuttles. (NOT CHEAP. But neither was that case.. ) I have seen silver keyboards and mice, and silver burners on ebay, also.. The drive shuttles come in wide and SCA. (Go for SCA, they are cheaper on ebay, and you can always use adapters, and hook them to a U2W controller.

I am waiting for this case to come in, so I can put 6 elcheapo white plastic non-hotswap shulltes under the door. (Yes, it will be windowed to death, and have 4 120mm panaflow fans.) You can find it at the link above also. They just dropped the price on it. It's only $65 with a 300w P4 ready PSU, and two case fans. (Anything with wheels and a door is worth $65)
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case-mod-gallery-jinco_1651_3865415.jpg  
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 21st October, 2001, 10:58 PM
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That case up there can be set up for 6 5¼'s under the door, or 3 can be swapped for 3½'s allowing you to use full length cards in the upper slots. There's one hidden 5¼" bay, under the seam for the door.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 24th October, 2001, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Azriel
Phiber.... for your lian-li aluminum case there.... Http://www.jinco.com has hot swap SCSI aluminum drive shuttles. (NOT CHEAP. But neither was that case.. ) I have seen silver keyboards and mice, and silver burners on ebay, also.. The drive shuttles come in wide and SCA. (Go for SCA, they are cheaper on ebay, and you can always use adapters, and hook them to a U2W controller.
wait waht was that for?
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 25th October, 2001, 08:38 AM
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Re: What kind of paint works best?

Quote:
Originally posted by patti ~
I love to paint stuff and Daniel's been after me for years to coat over those ugly putty colored plastic and steel towers.

And now here's a place to get advice on what paints work best!

Would prefer low toxicity, and non-aerosol. What do you guys have to recommend? (available in the US) Tks.
Just to tell you what I used. I actually used Rustolium, (spelling?)

It was somewhat on the cheap and plenty of colors to choose from. Unfortunatly it does not meet your criteria for the non-aerosol. And I imagine the toxic level is a little high. but the finish is grand. And durable. I actually baked some parts in the oven to harden the finish after they had dried for a while outside.............
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 25th October, 2001, 09:15 PM
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Thanks, Samyouknow.

Appreciate your advice on Rustoleum's paints. BUT.....I think I'll skip the added noxious fumes from oven curing!

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 25th October, 2001, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by patti ~
Thanks, Samyouknow.

Appreciate your advice on Rustoleum's paints. BUT.....I think I'll skip the added noxious fumes from oven curing!

People used to eat out of lead bowls and drink out of lead cups and nothing happened to them Well, at least the effects didn't kick in until they were like 65-70. Rustoleum isn't that bad for you. Now some of those acrylics or laqeurs will kill you if you breath them for more than a minute. That's why make a gas mask.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 26th October, 2001, 12:35 AM
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Where did u get that lian Lan case from? Id like a smaller version- but first i have to sell an extra file server. Think a p-3-

450/128mgs/8mgs ATI/Aopen Mb (w/ built in scsi 50/ 68pin)/(1) 4gig Ibm 7200/ (5) 5gig quantum 5400rpm- (hot swapable trays for 5)/ 32x toshiba Scsi 50pin/ 3.5 floppy/Full ATX w/ 300 watt ps/ 10(100) nic/ 64bit sound/ 12fans.
Is worth $500- the drives alone will get me ($50+ (5x $40) ($250) mb would get me $80- processor- $50, ram $10, nic- $10- cdrom-$30- trays $10 each ($50) And case $35 so $500?

Spyder
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 26th October, 2001, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by patti ~
Thanks, Samyouknow.

Appreciate your advice on Rustoleum's paints. BUT.....I think I'll skip the added noxious fumes from oven curing!

Well, it's not for everyone to try. It actually was not bad at all. I waited a few hours after painting b4 putting it in the oven. Just to speed it up a bit. BTW, this paint dries nicely if done in thin coats...........
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 26th October, 2001, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Superman53142


People used to eat out of lead bowls and drink out of lead cups and nothing happened to them Well, at least the effects didn't kick in until they were like 65-70. Rustoleum isn't that bad for you. Now some of those acrylics or laqeurs will kill you if you breath them for more than a minute. That's why make a gas mask.
And some ancients used white lead pigment in facial cosmetics. Vanity was about the only sign of brain function remaining before they succeeded in killing themselves!

Luckily I learned some good lessons early on.

A co-worker who went unprotected for years of exposure to heavy metals, solvents, asbestos, etc. has suffered multiple strokes and nearly passes out at the SIGHT of a parts cleaning tank! But thank god he still lives to walk "funny" and talk "funny" - his tales of warning.

I really messed MYSELF up one day. Welding seams inside a big stainless steel box, inadequate ventilation. After only about 5 minutes my blood pressure dropped way low, heart went racing. It was 2 days before I was able to stand up and take my first good, full breath without spasming out.

After that, I decided I COULD LIVE with those long lasting dents my respirator makes in my face (see portrait to left).

Well I'm pretty far off the point now........which is.....
I appreciate you guys replying with tips for my project.

And I do hope you'll KEEP YOUR HEADS out of the clouds, too
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 27th October, 2001, 12:30 AM
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I'd use Dupont Imron, but you probably wouldn't seeing as it requires a real paint gun and air compressor, and it's very very toxic! You can dip a cotton ball in the reducer, and throw it in a 5 gallon bucket with a rat, and put the lid on the bucket, the rat will be stone dead inside of 5 minutes. But as long as it sprays on good I'll continue to use it.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 27th October, 2001, 06:49 AM
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If you have the equipment and ventilation this is the way to go, You'll get that showroom shine everytime.........
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 28th October, 2001, 10:47 AM
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Sorry to so directly pimp the site here, but if guys want to, feel free to submit your case mods to casemod@bluesmoke.net.

If y