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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 13th November, 2001, 05:32 PM
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Vapochill users...

My Vapochill came in yesterday and I will be installing my Epox 8k7a+ & XP1800 this weekend. I've already RTFM'd and cruised through the forums on the Vapochill page; but, are there any installation tips or things NOT covered in the manual that's worth knowing before I start?

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P4 2.26b @ 2800 Mhz, or there abouts
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Old 14th November, 2001, 07:07 AM
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i hope you dont bust your chip, but if you can fork over the dough for a vapochill you're probably ok for a replacement chip as well...
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Old 14th November, 2001, 05:32 PM
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BA,

You know this is the one I got at the XP road show, I couldn't justify the cost if I actually had to buy one. But just because it was free doesn't mean it's expendable though.

The Vapochill was just my answer to the question "What's the difference between 100x$1 and 1x$100?" My ambient is killing me and rather than spend a lot of little dollars to get frosty, I spent one big dollar. But yeah, business and my luck have been good lately...

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P4 2.26b @ 2800 Mhz, or there abouts
Epox 4G4A+
Vapochilled
1 x 512meg Corsair XMS3200
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Old 14th November, 2001, 11:54 PM
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Just for comaprison, how much power do those things use? I'm asking because if I use dual 172W peltiers 24/7, and the vapochill uses less power, then it would basically pay for itself.
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Old 15th November, 2001, 12:13 AM
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Got these from the web page for you. The compressor unit runs off of a 12v from the PS, btw. (Looks like there's finally a good use for that P4 connector!)

Power Supply Requirements

Start-up

Cut-in voltage: 10.9 V
Peak current @ 12 (50 ms): 12 A +/- 1 A
Peak current @ 10 (50 ms): 14 A +/- 1 A

Continuous
Cut-out voltage: 9.6 V
Current @ 12 V and 100 W heat load: 6.6 A


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P4 2.26b @ 2800 Mhz, or there abouts
Epox 4G4A+
Vapochilled
1 x 512meg Corsair XMS3200
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Old 15th November, 2001, 08:55 PM
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very nice. so it may come out to be a similer price compared to getting a 24v psu to run a high wattage tec.
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Old 16th November, 2001, 08:25 AM
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My dual 120s kick the Kalifornia electric bill up about $60 per month. I believe a Vapochill is a more practical solution but no where near as much fun. Kind of like a business box.
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If the supercooled, overclocking crowd discovers how fast duallies feel, there will be a stampede to build SMP rigs that will make the California gold rush look like a few little old ladies pushing shopping carts at the supermarket.
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Old 16th November, 2001, 01:33 PM
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Okay - I didn't know that this thread was here until now but I'll try to assist.

First things first.

Get the door / tray / motherboard mounting chassis out of the case and mount your board to it.

Put the insulative foam in the socket aperture in the middle of the socket.

Grease the socket and back of processor thoroughly with the heating compound.

Chop the yellow 12V line of your PSU and connect the posi-connectors into the relay on the temperature display panel.

put the door / tray chassis back into the case.

Size up how your PSU will fit in and if the hose will get in the way much.

You may want to superglue the heating element to the top of the processor package to ensure good alignment.

When mounting the actual evaporator head onto the CPU, make sure the clamp is on the metal shoulder and not pressing into the hose at all times.

Tighten the screws evenly and gradually making sure that the head is flat to the surface of the die at all times. This is paramount to ensure that you do not cruch the die.

You should be able to fully tighten both screws and the evaporator head will still be able to move in a rotational manner just a few degrees either way in just the same fashion as a heatsink does when mounted on a die.

Make sure that you have your settings at the stipulated -5°C startup and 30°C cut out. Use the red jumper for 85% load and black for 100% load. I recommend the black jumper.

Connect all of the front panel connections exactly as described. The power on switch is most important as it needs to be thermostatically controlled.

When you power up the unit it should show the temperature rise upto anything like 40°C before the temperature begins to fall and then go sub zero. When the temperature reaches -5°C the mainboard will power and the system starts. Do not worry about the initial warmup of the evaporator. I remember that first time I thought it would burn my CPU out, but since the CPU has no power going through it at this point it is no problem.

Due to the fact that the system uses the 12V supply of the PSU it has no effect on the operation of the PSU to power the CPU, memory etc.

You should be most pleased with your Vapochill provided that you get good thermal interface without damage to the processor core.
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Old 16th November, 2001, 06:04 PM
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Thanks for the information. The manual seemed kind of lacking considering what needs to be done, and the forum was more horror or success stories rather than tips or gotchas. I think Asetek forgot that most of us don't put Vapochills together everyday and neglected to factor in a certain amount of stupid proofing in the doc. I'm going to start my prep and first walk-through tonight and hopefully hit the power-on either Saturday night or Sunday afternoon. I'll repost after that to let you know whether I'm "fried" or "frosty". Thanks again.

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P4 2.26b @ 2800 Mhz, or there abouts
Epox 4G4A+
Vapochilled
1 x 512meg Corsair XMS3200
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Old 16th November, 2001, 11:26 PM
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let's hope it's frosty!! good luck, man!
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Old 17th November, 2001, 08:36 PM
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The refrigerated cases are quite intriguing. What happened to the original ones? Before Vapochill came along, the first "fridged" cases were made in the USA(AFAIK) and were ~two hundred bucks cheaper. Is that outfit TU? The "front page" guys at OCer's.com reviewed an early Vapochill setup and pronounced it far more troublesome than the US one's.

TEC elements have always seemed less than a good idea, IMHO. Why in God's name is creating massive heat in order to attain massive cooling considered sound engineering? That heat must be dealt with and TEC's draw massive current as well. Of which at least half is wasted.

OCer's are not concerned with practicality. Yet...

What about these Korean cases with the water cooling gear built in? All you need to do is attach the boot(s), from what I understand. The cases are about $200. Seems hard to argue with this idea!

Elucidation sought on these Q's. TIA!
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Old 17th November, 2001, 11:28 PM
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The one advantage to pelts over a Vapochill is cooling capacity. From my conversations with Minotaur, the Vapochill is designed to deal with 100 watts. JCViggen just got his XP up to 2 GHz with his Vapochill. The socket thermistor temps are 38C at full load!
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Knowledge is useless, it’s what you do with it that counts.

If the supercooled, overclocking crowd discovers how fast duallies feel, there will be a stampede to build SMP rigs that will make the California gold rush look like a few little old ladies pushing shopping carts at the supermarket.
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