Cold Water Tubing..

[chris4521]

well i've pretty much finished my waterchiller (from a dehumidifier), and im worried about my tubing and my block. I figure im going to keep the water at about -10C. Im using clear vynil tubing from home depot and a maze3 waterblock with luclite top. will these parts be able to handle this temp? has anyone ever had any similar problems with this? i've heard of the luclite top cracking on the maze3, but im mainly worried about my tubing.
any help would be appreciated,
thanks in advance.

[Holst]

That tubing will get very stiff, but it should work ok.

It might be worth moving to silicone or tygon as they are both better at low temps.

Id be more worried about condensation on the tubing.

You will have to lag the tubes to stop the tubing dripping onto your stuff.

[bradmax57]

Originally Posted by chris4521

I figure im going to keep the water at about -10C.

Wont this be ICE?

[Marci]

ever heard of antifreeze??

[Marci]

and don't forget to condensation proof socket pins, cpu surface, and under soket and back of board... trust me, it's Necessary! My waterchiller killed an 1800+ and NF7-S today.... or should I say I did by NOT condensation proofing properly (I was a bit rushed at the time).

CPU at full load clocked upto 2.4Ghz, 200x12@1.8 degrees at 30 deg C full Load, resulted in 5 degree water (5% Antifreeze), with chiller refrigerant at -5 degrees (10% Antifreeze). When the board died I popped out the chip to fid droplets of water on the socket pins and on the underside of the CPU. So even with a CPU at that temp, you still get condensation probs Underneath.

The pipes were drenched on exposed areas... but were lagged to prevent any dripping onto mainboard or live area.... if only I'd remembered to do the damn socket *sigh*

http://www.over-clock.co.uk/killer/k...s/DSC00268.jpg
Condensation Proofed Block

http://www.over-clock.co.uk/killer/k...s/DSC00272.jpg
Lagged Tubing

[bradmax57]

Originally Posted by Marci

ever heard of antifreeze??

Ever Heard of taking the p..s?

[Marci]

yep... frequently!

[chris4521]

alright. how would i make sure there's no condensation on the CPU pins? should i put some foam in the socket itself (with an area cut out for the thermistor), and should i put some foam at the back of the board?
i've heard about di-electric grease. could i use this instead? or could i use them both in conjunction, thanks!

[bradmax57]

Originally Posted by Marci

yep... frequently!

[Marci]

should i put some foam in the socket itself (with an area cut out for the thermistor)

Yep!

and should i put some foam at the back of the board?

Yep!

i've heard about di-electric grease. could i use this instead?

Nope!

or could i use them both in conjunction, thanks!

Yep!

Fill center of socket with dielectric grease. Pop square of neoprene on top with hole for sensor if required. Smear dielectric grease into the socket pins themselves... make sure you completely seal all 462 pin holes... shim on top of cpu, dielectric grease on CPU SURFACE but not on the core.

[chris4521]

really? shim is necessary? =/ i guess i'll have to buy one then.
copper shim? or non-conductive.
thx

[Marci]

Not necessary, just makes it easier to condensation-proof... nonconductive is always the way to go with shims.

[chris4521]

thanks marci :>

as for insulation, i have some foam rubber here. will this work? i have a large block of it i was going to chop up with the exacto to fit the processor socket etc.

for tubing insulation i've just got the foam stuff that's the same material as pool noodles.

[MiGGinZ]

Read This Article it is for condensation proofing phase change systems but it applies for water cooling too.

[Holst]

Dont use a shim.
There more dangerous than without IMO.

You need to use a closed cell foam to prevent air from getting to your components. Neoprene is the most common for overclockers but a mouse pad if often just as good.
You can tell if its closed cell by trying to blow through it, if you can blow through then its no good!!