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Old 16th November, 2003, 05:48 AM
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New water cooling system

Well, finally finished the cooling system I talked about weeks earlier. After several problems, its up and happily cooling my 2500

I took several pic's along the way and will post what I did, should give a few good laughs.

I've got a 9000 BTU winkow unit evapaorator cooling a good-sized res, that of course leads to a water block.

Cooled pretty fast, almost didnt get the anti-freeze in in time, had half a block of ice,

Need to get a half-n-half mixture in there and a thermostat. It's lookin' like the AC will only have to run 15 minutes or so every hour or two.
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Old 16th November, 2003, 07:21 AM
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Well you've caught my interest! ":O}
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Old 18th November, 2003, 07:40 PM
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I figured I would post some of my water cooling pic's. I must say it exceeded my expectations and am very happy with it so far.

In the top pic you can see the window unit has been separated and rebrazed together for an optest (SAT). Next, I mounted the pump and evaporator to the front of the plexiglass and sealed.

The resevior was test fitted and eventually sealed with plumbers putty. If I did this again, I would cut the pieces with a little more slop to get additional sealing surface.

The bottom pick is nearly a finished product. After fixing several minor leaks, finally had 24 hours with no leak. You can see the aquarium pump and "unablock" water block in this pic also. I even had the foresight to connect a drain (leading outside) to the very bottom to allow draining for routine or emergency maintenance.
Attached Thumbnails
New water cooling system-cooling1.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling4.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling5.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling7.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling8.jpg  

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Last edited by warp1; 18th November, 2003 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 08:03 PM
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First pic looks all professional huh? (at least for my standards ) Unbeknownst to me there is a loose wire in there which would eventually burn up my motor. I'm not saying that it's Rice's fault but it was. It was part of his plot to limit my folding!! J/K.

Anyhow, never fear, another motor and fan combo is just a junkyard away.

The next is the insulated resevoir, another thing I learned... should have devised a way to INSULATE and make it look good. Oh well it is MY room and I'm a big believer in functionality.

Next you can see the refrigerant lines coming in from the condenser outside. The hole is only 1 inch and will be very easy to repair prior to moving (whenever that is).

As you can see in the brazing picture, I hardly have a flame and am nearly out of gas. Just enough for the last joint, Ha.

Bottom is nearly a completed project, the gray one gets cooled next once I pick out a waterblock. Need a good one that uses the clips vice screws cause the moboard doesn't have the holes.

You may also notice that I mounted the whole resevior in a secondary drain pan to help catch any "oops's".
Attached Thumbnails
New water cooling system-cooling9.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling10.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling11.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling13.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling14.jpg  

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Last edited by warp1; 18th November, 2003 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 08:34 PM
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First pic shows the completed indoor section. I have since added a used freezer thermostat (actually had to pay for this though, too impatient to go looking; $10) and mounted the remote thermometer on the back wall (some cheapo from wallmart).

The second pic shows the gutted outdoor section after someone fried my motor . All that's left is the condensor coil and compressor. Next pic shows the bad fan and motor.

Final pic shows my replacement , an indoor blower from a 3 ton residential unit we replaced last week (barely beat the junk man!). What a stroke of luck. I had initially planned major disassemby of this "donor" and the improbable attempt at fitting this much larger motor in the old shroud. When I sat it in there, the discharge side matches up nearly perfect with the condeser. All thats left now is to cover with sheet metal before the rain starts (90% chance tomarrow).
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New water cooling system-cooling15.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling16.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling17.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling18.jpg  
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XP2500+ @ 12.5*200(2.5Ghz), 1.95V, 12 degrees C while folding, ABIT NF7S ver 2.0, custom chilled water cooling with DangerDen Maze3, 512M PC3200 OC System RAM 6-3-3-2, Thermaltake 420W power supply, ASUS GF4 ti4200 (290/499), windows2k SP4
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Last edited by warp1; 18th November, 2003 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 08:52 PM
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Many thanks Warp1!
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Old 18th November, 2003, 09:00 PM
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Results!

Still in progress of testing but as I said earlier, they BIG TIME exceeded my expectations. I was very concerned about how long this sucker would run, not excited about the additional electricity cost. To my surprise it cools the water down to -20C in about 45 minutes (depends where I set the thermostat) and doesn't go up to above freezing for over 8 hours. Thats more than acceptable in my book!

The insulation to eliminate condensation were also major concerns to me. I got 99% of my info from 2 sources.

First, Procooling.com, articles by Joe and Una were invaluable in helping me select my different materials (especially plumbers goop !!)

Second, I followed this article nearly verbatim, "stopping condensation cold" by Bowman, over at Phase-change.com. I haven't found any condensation yet but still checking close.

Thanks also to Wollitz Heat and Air Inc for humoring me with spare parts.

For insulation, I only used neoprene and dielectric grease from NAPA. To go colder I might need stronger measures but works great for now.

I went with the "unablock" just to check it out since I didn't really have any preferences but would go to higher-tech all copper in the future. With -10C water applied, chip still shows 18-22 C in Winbond Hardware doctor. Would expect a lower temp difference from a good heat transfer surface

Price breakdown:
plexiglass - $20-30 from home depot
neoprene - $22 shipped (huge roll, I used about 25 cents of it )
aquarium pump - $23 from petsmart
connectors and tubing $20 from home depot
Unablock - $20 shipped
2 tubes plumbers goop - $10 from Kmart

Well, all in all I'm a very happy camper. My overclock is no longer limited by temperature, I can add as many puters to my loop as desired, the heat stays outside vice my room, and I had a blast doing it.

Time for a . Later, Bill

P.S. Just need to figure why my FSB is so limited, chip is doing great.
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XP2500+ @ 12.5*200(2.5Ghz), 1.95V, 12 degrees C while folding, ABIT NF7S ver 2.0, custom chilled water cooling with DangerDen Maze3, 512M PC3200 OC System RAM 6-3-3-2, Thermaltake 420W power supply, ASUS GF4 ti4200 (290/499), windows2k SP4
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Last edited by warp1; 18th November, 2003 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 09:04 PM
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FSB limits are usually either poor mem or poor NB cooling.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 09:17 PM
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Robbie, I have the equipment shown in my sig. I use onboard everything cept video. The RAM is rated for 400 FSB and I'm using their rated timings that I got from the web site CAS 2, 6-3-3. OC System website state that they test each piece of RAM before shipping (maybe I put too much faith into that statement).The board, ABIT NF7-M should be good for more than 170 shouldn't it?

It was mentioned that the onboard video could be the culprit but cant figure how to turn it off in BIOS. Someone posted that it may get turned off automatically by the AGP slot but I don't have a clue.

Cant test my RAM on the MSI board cause the moboard doesn't like it. I do have some OCZ PC 3200 I could put in there to test (its currently powering the MSI board) but only 256M so no video games while testing and it cant stay that way anyhoo.

Definitely open to ideas though.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 09:20 PM
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Have you ran memtest on your board with the manufac recommended timings?!?!
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Old 18th November, 2003, 09:26 PM
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Yes, with the overclock (multiplier only) listed in my sig, did 3 memtest cycles of all tests with no errors (2-3-3-6). The current overclock is great but multi goes from 14 to 15 (no .5) and although it benches at 15x166, it won't fold. So I'm missing a signigicant sweet spot between 2.34 and 2.49.

Also during intial system testing (low multiplier), the FSB was crapping out in the mid 170's, thats when I started using memtest and would freeze like crazy. At that time I had looser (moboard picked) settings, I think something like 2-4-6-10.
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Old 18th November, 2003, 10:12 PM
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HAHAHA I LOVE IT!!!
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Old 19th November, 2003, 04:01 PM
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Last pic's. Finished product inside (cept applying RTV and removing tape) and the hand made aluminum shroud outside. The little bubble on top is for air intake as this fan sucks from the top and bottom unlike a typical window A/C.

I have to thank Rice for the help with the shroud (and the first motor...LOL).

Later guys, was a bunch of fun!
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New water cooling system-cooling19.jpg   New water cooling system-cooling21.jpg  
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Old 19th November, 2003, 10:33 PM
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Regarding your FSB, supercooling your NB will definitely help. Since the onboard VGA is active, cooling it further should pay dividends... Given all the work you've put in, and the power capabilities, it would be worth it.

BTW, I don't have the NF7m.... I have an NF7s and 8RGA+, , does that count? There should be a way to turn it off... if not in the bios, maybe a jumper?
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Old 20th November, 2003, 04:51 AM
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Thanks for the advice Steve, was kind of worried about supercooling the Northbridge and video card due to difficulties insulating them. They just look tougher, but I guess the Northbridge shouldn't be any different than the chip was.

Was kind of thinking the same thing myself. For now I'm happy with the stock FSB and 14 multi, FSB won't help the folding, just was surprised. Someone posted at one of the other boards that 1.2's were only rated for 333, if so, that makes much more sense.
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Old 20th November, 2003, 01:20 PM
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Hmmm... just a thought warp1, have you removed the stock NB HSF and replaced the gloopy thermal material with some decent stuff?
I took mine off the other day and found that only about 1/4 of the chip had the white gloop on it.
I'm sure the NF77-M v1.2's are good for 200 FSB, maybe you have to try lots of different BIOS's?

Just my £0.02 worth.

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Old 21st November, 2003, 01:47 AM
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Good advice, I'll probably try it over the holidays.
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