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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 29th May, 2004, 05:12 PM
BOD BOD is offline
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BODge it & Scarper - My attempt at watercooling

Gave up with the Globalwin Silentstream watercooling as it kept getting airlocks. Flawed design so sent it back.

Had a brainwave!!!

Bought a Zalman CPU Block for watercooling.

Bought a storage container (holds about 4 gallons) and 8mm clear hose from B&Q.

Dug out my old pond pump (4500 litres per hour).

Put the pump in the now water filled storage container and connected the hoses to the CPU block and tested for leaks.

Put it in my system this morning.

Ran for 20mins under full load.

Ambient temperature was 21c
CPU temp (full load) was 35c

Now its cooler and quieter!!!

Here are some pics if you are interested:

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/dr...servoirtop.jpg
http://server5.uploadit.org/files/dr...rvoirfront.jpg
http://server5.uploadit.org/files/dr...pccpublock.jpg

Need to get some anti-algae additive.
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Old 5th June, 2004, 06:03 PM
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That's a nice straightforward and effective job.

Does the water stay cool over a long period of time?
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Old 5th June, 2004, 06:09 PM
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Well done! This is pretty much where water cooling began! ":O}
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Old 13th June, 2004, 11:24 PM
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Thats spot on, whats the big concrete slab for??? oh and well done
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Old 13th June, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Waterproofing.
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Old 13th June, 2004, 11:55 PM
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Talking

hehe
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Old 14th June, 2004, 12:58 AM
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Now, THAT'S a PUMP!!!
Nice setup, but like danrok asked does it heat up over time? Also, you may wanna cut out a notch for the power cord. This will allow the lid to close more and you'll be less likey to lose water over the long haul.
Rob
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Old 17th June, 2004, 06:34 PM
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Soz - just got back from holiday.

Ok - I attached a central heating radiator (500x420mm) from Wickes (£10) in the outlet stage to help cool the water. What I found prior to this was that after 2 to 3 hours of full load the temp would reach 45-47c

Having run the PC now for 3 hours full load it hovers around 40-41c which in my mind is very good.

My setup is:
Abit NF7s V2
Barton 2500 overclocked to a 3200

I succeeded in overclocking but got 54/55c using aircooling (not a particularly good HSF) but had some noise.

Now I have overclocking without noise and better temps.

Razorfish - the concrete slab is sat on top of my subwoofer. The weight forces the cone movement to the floor and reinforces low end clarity.
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Old 17th June, 2004, 07:02 PM
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Have you got any pics of it with the rad installed?
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Old 17th June, 2004, 11:47 PM
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Right i see, nice one. sound good???
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Old 26th June, 2004, 05:41 PM
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Ok - the central heating radiator is rusting from the inside so I have rusty water.

So I have made a copper radiator using my limited plumbing skills.

http://server6.uploadit.org/files/dr...d-Radiator.jpg

Will install next weekend and see how it goes.
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Old 26th June, 2004, 05:57 PM
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That looks trendy!

I'm looking forward to seeing how well it works.
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Old 26th June, 2004, 07:13 PM
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Yeah, paint it some cool color's so the wife won't mind.
Rob
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Old 26th June, 2004, 08:21 PM
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Well done BOD! Front page!

http://www.aoaforums.com/
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Old 26th June, 2004, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOD
Ok - the central heating radiator is rusting from the inside so I have rusty water.
If you've got mixed metals in your system, you need to ensure you put some anti-corrosion additive in. Most Antifreeze has some or you can get anti-corrosion additives for use with central heating systems. Both have a smell that's best kept sealed away!

If your radiator is getting rid of heat at the same speed your machine is adding it (so it's in equilibrium), then you don't need much water, only enough to handle a circuit around the system. For example, my system holds just over 220ml of water, as there is no reservoir. It does tend to mean that if the system gets damaged, there's far less water to clear up, and that you're not masking any improvements in the system by the length of time the water takes to change temperature.
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Old 26th June, 2004, 10:44 PM
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Mmmm... Antifreeze
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Old 26th June, 2004, 11:21 PM
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Wow - thanks Daniel.

Have looked at central heating inhibitors but they state not for use with aluminium. The Zalman waterblock is anodised aluminium but I thought I'd better not take the risk.

Antifreeze - never thought of that. Doesnt antifreeze add a couple of degrees to the temperatyre though? I am sure I've read that somewhere.

I will get a smaller reservoir (half the size) for the pump. Toatl volume will likely be under 15 litres I hope. I've only got one 25ltr drum of demineralized water.
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Old 26th June, 2004, 11:25 PM
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How badly antifreeze affects your temperature depends on how much you add! If the system's never going to go below zero, then you only need a fairly light 'summer' mix. That will protect against both organic growth and corrosion (Think how fast an engine could corrode with it's coolant at 100C). You also get the bonus of colored water!
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Old 28th June, 2004, 09:47 PM
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Now THATS a radiator!

Anodized aluminum is non-reactive, but your probably right in not risking it without need.
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Old 29th June, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOD
Ok - the central heating radiator is rusting from the inside so I have rusty water.

So I have made a copper radiator using my limited plumbing skills.

http://server6.uploadit.org/files/dr...d-Radiator.jpg

Will install next weekend and see how it goes.
You know... if you tilt your heat 90deg it looks like a headboard for a bed....

Depending on where you live... have you thought about burying it in the ground where it is a nice constant temp? On the other hand it may return some energy back to the home in the winter if you set it behind the couch.

All in all it is a lot of surface area to get rid of the heat. It will be interesting to see how well it works. Keep us informed.
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