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Yes. heatpipes are filled with a gas at pressure, and there is a wick inside to allow the moisture to travel back to the hot side once cooled. Quite obviously, they work best when the cool side is the highest. Your assumptions are correct in the "cold"...it takes a TEC for what you are looking for i think.
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yes, those are in the works here too ![]()
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I have both my cpu and gpu heatpipe cooled...andi could not be happier for the results on air....heck, my gpu is a full 20c lower @ full load than it was when idle with the stock heatsink, and the memory 12(although there is not heatpipes directly on the memory). I am looking at getting an si-97, or a hyper6 for my next athlon build....and i really like how most heatpipes can be used across multiple platforms.
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cooling the GPU makes the ram cooler...though I'm not sure why. When I wasn't quite cooling myGPU well enough, the whole card, including the ram got way hotter. When I had my Giant 3 on my 5900 it dropped the temps like 30+oC and it only went up ~10oC load. They are marvelous inventions.
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Rob
__________________ Taking each day as it comes Grow, learn and OVERCLOCK. Need help?? Ask me. Your Mommy!! (Aug/02) Welcome to the fold. Buy it, Sell it, or Trade it in the AoA classifieds!! ![]() |
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ok, i know this post is better served in the general hardware section, but I been thinking about trying this mod out, looking at the dominator pro. This is pending the cost of having my friends make me a psu for my pelts(given I go with this idea), does anyone think this is really viable for use in a TEC setup? Would it maybe be a better idea to just have them build a PSU with that kind of power? Given the dominator requires 24+V, adn this only give 17V(if i remember my electronics right), but I would assume that you could mod it to run all the rails together? This or maybe get one to run the upgraded pelt for my video card which is in the works. Basically, I just need to know if this mod is a viable means of getting more of these types of power through the wires for use. http://www.overclock.net/showthread.php?t=1933 btw my friends are EE majors, and they say building a simple PSU, for powering simple stuff like tecs(not quite computers) is easy, and wouldn't be too difficult or costly to produce(esp because of the connections they have with componets).
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oh dear god...i hadn't seen this : http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/fro...x-blc-134.html my brain hurts, and I'm scared.
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I'd tend toward building a PSU specifically for the pelt. The mod mentioned at overclock.net would only work well with a PSU that regulates the +12v rail; PSUs that regulate from the +5v rail wouldn't be able to deliver the full rated load without also placing a load of some significant size on the +5, so you would tend to get less than the full 28 amps from the PSU mentioned, and you'd also tend to get less than the full 12v. That Dominator looks nice, but you are talking almost 700w of heat at maximum output JUST FOR THE PELT. It should definitely be able to cool your cpu, but it wouldn't be cheap. |
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yea I realize how much heat that is, and man is it an intimidating task, which is why it appeals to me. I was considering dedicating my water loop to just the CPU now anyways, since the video card is now seeing the same temps as air cooling...which is quite unfortunate. It was -5oC ambient when I had my XP in there, this prescott musta warmed the loop an awful lot. Maybe someone will come out with a superior air cooler for it in the mean time. I'm pretty sure with a pump upgrade my water system can handle 700W of heat disspiation from the hot side of the pelt.
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If I put the bottom end against a CPU, and the top end against a TEC, what's happening? That's right, heat is being transferred in the correct direction. Heatpipes need some form of liquid and a space for the vapour inside them. The liquid and vapour pressure inside determine the efficiency at a set of given temperatures.
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Then, you'll also have the peltier's power supply generating a fair bit of heat. Assuming it's a good switcher, and you're probably only losing some 20% of the power, which leaves you another 120W to get rid of. Also remember that your system's energy consumption will probably jump by about four times too! Given the cost of the device, the assosiated components to go with it (upgrade of water cooling system, probably including radiator) and the power supply, you might well towards price of a phase change system. A phase change system should offer better performance, lower temperatures and far higher efficiency!
__________________ Any views, thoughts and opinions are entirely my own. They don't necessarily represent those of my employer (BlackBerry). Last edited by Áedán; 24th November, 2004 at 12:33 AM. |
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Ahhh, I was thinking that the total heat was the pelt+the proc and then a bit more because of the inefficency. And you can't base how much heat your water system can take based off the heat that your rad can supposedly dissipate either I assume? As for the heatpipes thing I just phrased it wrong, I was treating "Cold" as something other than the lack of heat energy. I guess what I meant was, for lack of better wording so wrap ur mind around this for me, carry the cold down to the bottom and make the bottom activly cooling the bottom processor side. But now like you said in the theoretical tec sitution(tec on heatpipes) thats limited by the pressure of the gas inside for its operating range? Say that the upper surface has basically no limit to the heat it can dissipate(just for the what if factor), the heatpipes would have a limit to how much they could carry away right? And I'm guessing that limit is right around what a really good heatsink could do?(on average for the heatpipes that are actually used) btw this is all theory so feel free to theorize on your own, I'm just searching for answers. btw does anyone have the specific heat of water on hand? I wanna look at how close that 1200W of heat brings the water directly above the tec. Wow my chemestry class this semester IS good for something...
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The bad news on this front is that radiators get less efficient the closer they are to ambient. Radiators have a log relationship - the hotter they are compared to ambient, the more heat they can shift. Unfortunately, this is the opposite situation of the peltier! Quote:
If you actually use water, then your heat pipe won't really move any heat until the hot end is at 30C. If you want it to start moving heat before that, you need to switch to a different working fluid, such as ammonia. There is a lot of information about heatpipes on the internet - Google is your friend!
__________________ Any views, thoughts and opinions are entirely my own. They don't necessarily represent those of my employer (BlackBerry). |
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All of my observations have been just in practice...if i place my system on it's side, the gpu gets hotter, and the cpu gets cooler, only a few degrees in both places, but we all know how bad just a few degrees can be! I've been messing with the idea of having a heatpipe inside a rad, and making up for the differences for pelt cooling that way (trying to make the rad more efficient), but once i got the thermaltake heatpipe-cooled PSU, i thought it might be a misplaced idea....
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The calculations to determine the temperatures of the system at or near steady-state are pretty simple (for a chemical or mechanical engineer) ![]()
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Aedan was wrong? The foundations of my world are crumbling!! ":O}
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sorry im a computer tech major...and only in my second year of study...I don't have a firm gasp on ANYTHING yet ![]() ![]()
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