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Old 4th February, 2002, 10:33 PM
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Fixing the lid

I am making a new water block, simple maze type the question is do i solder the lid on or try and make a gasket seal??
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Old 4th February, 2002, 10:36 PM
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do you have access to taps and dies for putting threads into metal?
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Old 4th February, 2002, 11:18 PM
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Old 4th February, 2002, 11:39 PM
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soldering will never leak, a gasket? who knows?
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Old 4th February, 2002, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by surlyjoe
soldering will never leak, a gasket? who knows?
Oh, I've found soldering will quite happily leak, but not until you've toasted whatever it was you were meant to be cooling. Somehow I don't think that 400C helps silicon.

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Old 5th February, 2002, 12:01 AM
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I have access to lots of tools.
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Old 5th February, 2002, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by AidanII


Oh, I've found soldering will quite happily leak, but not until you've toasted whatever it was you were meant to be cooling. Somehow I don't think that 400C helps silicon.

AidanII
I had a be cooling water blocks solder job break and hose my system while it was on..that sucked.
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Old 5th February, 2002, 09:16 AM
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If you can make threads its easy then!
Make youre base, makins sure you leave a 1cm square at each corner with no water channels in.
Cut some 5mm+ thick plexiglass to just larger than the top of the block. Place it atop the block and mark out where you want to drill the holes for mounting.
Drill them at 6mm. Sit the plexi atop the block again and then mark the centres of these hole throught onto the block - they should line up with the 1cm square corner bit with no water channels. Drill holes down these centers to 5mm, drill down about 2/3rds throught the block. Tap these threads with a 6mm tap.

Drill the holes for your hose barbs in the plexiglass lid.

Run a fine bead of silicon (the clear stuff works best) round the outside edge of the block, then place the lid atop it and screw it down, not fully though, leave about 2mm thick of silicon. let this dry, then tighten the top right down..
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Old 5th February, 2002, 07:15 PM
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sounds like a plan will look into it, the problem is that the advantage of gasket is that you can remove the lid and refit, with silicone this will not be the case so i think i will just solder. Not sure though
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Old 5th February, 2002, 07:26 PM
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You can remove the lid with silicone, usually the seal stays intact too, thats why you leave it to dry approx 2mm thick.. also, polishing the plexi (furniture polish)before siliconing gives ya a better chance of it not sticking to the lid, which means it is more likely to be removable
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Old 6th February, 2002, 12:21 AM
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This is what i was thinking of, http://www.kplonk.com/cgi-bin/pagebu...e=block&page=2 as you can see there is not all that much room, 2mm round all edges. what do you think??
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Old 6th February, 2002, 02:02 AM
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Using my drill press boched method I was accurate to +/- .5mm so I had to have 3mm gams between chanels to be safe.
My method was highly innacurate.

If you have a propper milling machine or CNC then 2mm will be fine.

The design looks pretty good, simple yet effective and high flow rate. I think that a central intake design will perform better but its more awquard.
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Old 6th February, 2002, 08:11 PM
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Hmm that’s a thought had forgotten that, the milling is not as easy, all will have to be done by had to that is not good and will takes ages. The design you have seen has no tight radii so will not be too had I think. Hope!!
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Old 6th February, 2002, 08:47 PM
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Old 11th February, 2002, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Holst
Using my drill press boched method I was accurate to +/- .5mm so I had to have 3mm gams between chanels to be safe.
My method was highly innacurate.

If you have a propper milling machine or CNC then 2mm will be fine.

The design looks pretty good, simple yet effective and high flow rate. I think that a central intake design will perform better but its more awquard.
what sort of vice did you use??
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Old 17th February, 2002, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kplonk
This is what i was thinking of, http://www.kplonk.com/cgi-bin/pagebu...e=block&page=2 as you can see there is not all that much room, 2mm round all edges. what do you think??
I've made a waterblock that is the same as this design. Instead of using the screw brass fitting, I use copper pipes and silver solder the whole unit together.

I would not recommend the use of screw fittings for the inlet and outlet. The 3 mm thickness cover plate for holding the fitting is inadequate. It may not hold for too long before it starts to leak, as there are only 2 to 3 threads that are holding the fitting to the block which is not recommanded as the standard fittings are constructed with taper treads.
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Old 17th February, 2002, 07:36 PM
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Thanks for that makes sense, to be honest I usury solder the threads as well just to make sure.
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