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Old 11th October, 2005, 07:05 PM
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Need some good cooling

I run a pc in my car, and the room temp in there can reach 150-160 degrees fahrenheit, so good cooling is a must...

I don't know much about liquid cooling, how it works, what things I need, or how likely a leak is in a rough car enviroment... so i was looking at sticking with heatsinks and fans...

I have an amd athlon xp 2200+ Socket A, and two other heatsink locations on the board (I believe both dealing with my on-board graphics) one is a 40mm heatsink base, and another has a 30mm heatsink base

So i need to replace all of these with better cooling devices, whatever help you can give me would be great
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Old 11th October, 2005, 09:58 PM
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I'd recommend getting a motherboard with the mounting holes round the CPU socket. The last thing you want is to put in a nice heavy copper HSF and have it rip the socket off the board if it shifts violently.
For good HSF's.....probably a Thermalright SLK900U or 800.

But if you watercooled it you could have the radiator in the engine bay where it would get nice ventilation and then just plumb the water to wherever the PC is

If you got a leak the CPU would gradually heat up but just set the PC to shut down when the CPU gets to say 70C?
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Old 11th October, 2005, 10:22 PM
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You can visit for example Thermalright site here it has a complete list which heatsink is for many mainboards.
SLK 900U is a good copper heatsink and you can o/c but don't expect amazing speeds you need watercooling at least.
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Old 11th October, 2005, 11:12 PM
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I'm not overclocking at all... I have the ApoX EP-8RGM3I and not really any settings for overclocking, plus heat is bad enough as is.... And i cannot change mobos, because this one has the dual VGA outputs, which i use to send video to dual screens in my car... I'm thinking watercooling may be the way to go, is there any site that can give me a lot of info on watercooling? and also, im not worried about leaks affecting temps, because i use MBM currently to monitor and alert me of temps, but how easy is it for a watercooling unit to spring a leak and short electrical equipment... ex. Amps, hdd, and my mobo?
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Old 12th October, 2005, 12:01 AM
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Unfortunatley your mainboard does not have the 4 mounting holes round the socket. Some/most Waterblocks mount using these holes as the waterblocks are quite weighty and there are usually forces on the block do to the bent pipes and the weight of the WB.

Some however mount using the CPU socket lugs or have adaptors that let them mount using the lugs.

Leaks can happen, and depending where it is it could fry your board. If it was at the radiator say,then the loop would just drain and empty, temps would rise an PC would shut down.

Where is the PC located in the car?
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Old 12th October, 2005, 12:13 AM
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The mounting isnt a problem, I have almost every fabrication tool you could think of at my disposal, I can make braket or something for it that mounts to the same surface the mobo is on, so im not worried about that....

The pc is going in the spare tire well, and more than likely the radiator would go up in the engine bay, so most piping would not be with the electronics, besides the piping that is actually attached to the cooling units on the board.... also, is it possible to cool things other than my cpu with the watercooling? such as my other two heatsinks i mentioned (the 30mm and 40mm ones?), and possibly my hdds?
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Old 12th October, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Yes it is possible. To water cool the hard drives: http://www.viperlair.com/reviews/coo...ek/blocks/hdd/

Those other two are probably north and south bridge chips. Just putting on decent sized heatsinks would be enough to keep those happy. Unless you plan on overclocking.

I want to see some pics of this car. Because I have always thought about doing it, just not sure how.
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Old 12th October, 2005, 01:13 PM
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well the pc has been in a few times, just to get ripped out again for some reason... and its currently out of the car right now.... mp3car.com is a great place for info about carpcs.... and i can answer any questions you have about it too
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Old 12th October, 2005, 02:12 PM
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Thanks man. I will look into a bit later (physics homework). Stupid prac. about using a pendulum to determine the force of gravity.
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Old 12th October, 2005, 03:27 PM
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I would be concerned about shock and vibration ripping stuff off the board, particularly large capacitors. I would highly recommend you come up with some kind of shock mounting system to reduce the vibration to the mobo. You'd be surprised how many Gs can be exerted on internal components when traveling down a bumpy road, even with good shocks and suspension on the car.

This also is the reason I would be concerned with water cooling the PC; keeping those things sealed reliably is a challenge in desktop systems. Doing so in an automotive environment without some really heinous connectors might prove to be near to impossible.

If that mobo will support it, you might want to look into getting a AthlonXP Mobile (like the 2600+). You can reduce the voltage quite a bit by underclocking it down to something like 1 GHz, which will provide a HUGE reduction in heat.

Anyway, just some thoughts.
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Old 12th October, 2005, 03:51 PM
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Possibly the glue trick for the motherboard?

I bought a rather expensive powered sub a while back and upon opening it up, it looks like someone has taken a hot glue gun, and just run lines of hot glue in thinish lines over the top of all the components, particularly the larger ones. It didnt cover it, it was just lines draped, that took the stress off the caps and stuff.

I was quite disgusted by it at first but it kind of makes sense to me. Then I read that its rather common in sub amps to use the glue method to stop the subs from rattleing caps loose.

What do you guys think?
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Old 12th October, 2005, 04:33 PM
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I don't think putting a rad in the engine bay would work. It does get hot under there. No problem for an engine, but not the best place for a CPU cooling rad. Even if you position it where there is good air flow under the hood it will be prone to debris hitting it. Also, you would need a powerful pump to move water all the way from the rear to the front of the car and back again.

You want the rad to be somewhere where the temps are reasonably stable and predictable.

This rad would be a good choice:
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product...roducts_id=216

It has compression screw hose adaptors built in. They are reliable hose fittings.

Or, how about putting one of these in a hole on the parcel shelf?
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product...roducts_id=212

That would look very cool.
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Old 12th October, 2005, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsio
I bought a rather expensive powered sub a while back and upon opening it up, it looks like someone has taken a hot glue gun, and just run lines of hot glue in thinish lines over the top of all the components, particularly the larger ones. It didnt cover it, it was just lines draped, that took the stress off the caps and stuff.
We used to do the same thing for the monitors that we built when I was at Display Tech. Things is, the hot melt glue provides SOME shock absorbing capability as far as keeping the parts from falling off the board, but it does NOTHING for problems like stress cracks in the mobo, or solder that literally vibrates off the leads. Even bass-bins don't generate the kind of acceleration you can see from road shock.
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Old 12th October, 2005, 10:12 PM
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shock actually isnt as big of a problem as some may think... i have minimal shock protection, and a very rough riding car and ive never had any problems.... of course in this install im going to be fabricating some good brackets and mounting systems for everything being installed, I planned on using hose clamps, my boss has a train horn on his truck, which runns off compressed air at maybe 200psi, and those clamps wont let any leaks... and I'm not installing the rad under the hood, just thought it was humorous
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