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View Poll Results: What size tubing sould I use?
All 3/4" 1 11.11%
All 1/2" 6 66.67%
All 3/8" 1 11.11%
A mix (please specify) 1 11.11%
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11th June, 2002, 08:31 PM
eobard
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I am having no luck finding 3/8" pipe without buying miles of the stuff and finding fittings that will just snap into the block that I can then put 1/2" tubing around is impossible so far. Looks like a welding I will go....
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12th June, 2002, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by eobard
1) BUMP.

2) How much difference would having the system go:

"Pump>Block>Rad" with a mix of hose widths

instead of:

"Pump>Rad>Block" with all the same widths

be?

I now have the pump as of today so I went to size up rads and found one that has one 3/4" and one 1/2" end pipes so if I bought that one (35% cheaper than the next model) then the easiest way to connect everything would be to run a 3/4" hose from the pump to the rad and use 1/2" hose fore everything else. The 3/4" connection on the pump is the input though so the rad would come before the pump, not after.

3) The rad I looked at was 8" by 6" of surface area (not counting the solid ends), the more expensive one was 10" by 7 or 8". Would the bigger one give me much more performance? The price difference is $32.xx Can vs $49.xx Canadian.
You wont get much of an advantage from using 1/2" tube if you have a 3/8" inlet to your pump.
That will cause a significant restriction and will loose you the flowrate gains from having 1/2"

If your going to use 1/2" make the entire system 1/2"

The order of the system isnt very important.
Idealy you would run Pump - Rad -block and back to pump
But running pump block rad wont be much worse (if at all)

A rad that is 8"x6" sounds big enough to give good performance, many people get away with 4"x4"x2" radiators.
If your planning on using a high wattage peltier then you may have to give your radiator more comsideration.

If you have the facility to weld then if just buy a car heatercore (or two) and solder some 1/2" copper tube as barbs. That should be cheaper than any commercial rad and will give equal or better performance.
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