Looking for a cold solution

[JINXED02]

I only recently purchased an epox 8k3a mobo and a xp1900
which I found after putting everything together and seemed to run extremely hot 61c, so I downgraded to a morgan core durron 1.2 and this still seemed to run pretty hot I was still using the same copper based heatsink and fan rpm 7500 rpm pretty noisy, with artic silver paste 53c. Both of these temps are not even at full load.

So I'm here looking for advice...?
I would prefer to be running my xp1900...! please bare this in mind when and if you answer thanx.

System Details:-

Tower case, cd-rw,dvd, 1 psu 550wtts enermax- mainboard ,1psu 250wtts just for the 4 case fans,Durron 1.2 pasted with artic silver to coolmaster heatsink&fan rated2.0gig, 80gig hdd,Gladiac 920 geforce3 64mb agp,dial-up modem 56k,Sound blaster pro pci,Samsung256mg ddr2100,Floppy drive.

Windows98se
Fsb setting = 100mhz
Dram setting = 133mhz
Cpu setting = 100
Jumper setting = 1-2
Temperature = 61c

ps: Memory tested A ok.

[Random Nonsense]

Which coolermaster heatsink is it? Since the 8K3A uses the on core diode its reletively accurate it will be running around the reported temp. This implies that the heatsink is either incorrectly seated, or more likely just not up to the job. a VERY good and cheap heatsink is the Thermalrigh AX7 which uses an 80mm fan for spectacular results, performs as good as any 60mm heatsink ever has with a delta screamer, but almost silent! or you can get the absolute best performance with a meaty 80mm such as one of the big delta's if you can put up with the noise.

[robbie]

I'd say double check to see if you didn't install the heat sync correctly. Be sure to NOT put ALOT of artic silver on.

Welcome to the forums, and when you get that system running cooler check out our folding section!!! :
Rob

[dimmreaper]

Internal diods typically report higher temperatures than in-socket thermistors. It is likely that your readings are farely accurate, but I suspect you may also have inadiquate chassis ventilation, or thermal paste which is not properly applied(check out the arctic silver website for application directions).

[JINXED02]

Thanx for your advice but I really want be running my xp1900 I've got all new spanky games and my pc is just not upto scatch, it is impossible to play for long periods of time with it in place as the the machine just goes haywire thats why I switched down to the durron only to find the same kind of problems occuring, I know it's not a driver or hardware issue, theres plenty of power as I checked and re-checked my system over and over, it's not being overclocked in anyway ( not yet anyway..!), I've taken the heatsink off cleaned the plate and with a special cleaner and re-applied artic silver paste ie: a small very ammount to the surface of the heatsink then rubbed into face, wiped off any excess. then applied a small ammount directly to cpu mount. Might I add at this point that I have built several pc's in the past not just for myself but for other peeps, and this is the first time that I have ever had any real probs. also there is one other thing I would like to consider when asking for advice on cooling how do you get around the noise problem, as it sounds like a miniture typhoon sitting next to my pc at the moment, get the picture.....

[Random Nonsense]

It sounds to me like inadequate case ventilation, have you tried removing the side panel? Unfortunately Cold = Loud unless you are willing to splash out on a watercooling set up.

[SiGmA_X]

My friend in Vegas had a similar problem with the ASUS A7V333/aXP1700+ system I built him. He is using the stock HSF however, and that explains most of the heat. If he had more case cooling, it would have been cooler overall.

So, to solve the problem, get a good HSF (You have done that ) and get good case ventilation. I would recommend a single 80mm in the case door and another single 80mm in the case top. The door fan should be positioned over the CPU for maximum cooling. If you have the room, use 120mm fans, as they push far more air at far less decibels (My new rig will use 120mm's only, 1 in the side above my PCI/AGP cards, and 2 in the back (1 on either side of my radiator) where the PSU would be. I am using a 1u PSU instead of a normal ATX PSU, so I will be able to fit a 120mm in the back along with a PSU The case is a Lian Li PC-70)

Best of luck to you, and please keep us posted!

[JINXED02]

Once again thanx for the advice, before I make any further changes to my setup could someone give me some idea of the temperatures that I should be getting from an non oc'ed xp1900 running both idle and at full loads as this would help quite a lot, cheers.

[cloasters]

If it's possible that your case isn't moving enough of a volume of air, aka throughput through itself, removing the left case cover will aid in the diagnosis.

If your mainboard and CPU temps drop more than a couple of degrees C after the case cover is removed, more throughput is strongly indicated.

It's a bit difficult to believe that more thermal paste than necessary doesn't improve the transfer of heat from the CPU to the heatsink. More is always better, at least in the US.

After noting that my CPU was too hot given the ambient temp and case throughput, I got off my lazy self and removed the HSF for a gander at the thermal paste sitch. Then I remembered. For "safety's sake," I added a bit more AS "for insurance."

Removing all of the AS(the stuff gets everywhere. Especially when you use too much) then applying it the way it's supposed to be done dropped my CPU temp by 3C.

A paper thin even layer that covers the top of the processor is the key to the best CPU cooling.

The top of the CPU must be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol before the thermal paste is applied. AMD's slugs are so tiny that I make sure that no dust motes are on the processor before applying the glop. Every square mm is important when there are so few to start with.

The business area of the heatsink must be cleaned with methylated spirits(I think that's UK talk for isopropyl alcohol) too.

AMD's little glass slugs are not as robust as Intel's. Be careful when installing and removing HSF's. Happy cooling!

[Winkie]

I run a non OC'd 2100+ with case side off and in and out fan(s) at 45 or lower idle and 52 or so full load


that's with a coolermaster heatpipe with a "silent" fan (it's damn quiet)

[dimmreaper]

Originally posted by cloasters
methylated spirits(I think that's UK talk for isopropyl alcohol)

It sounds like denatured alcohol to me. Basically ethanol(which is the stuff in wobbly pops that makes you wobbly) with a bit of methanol(wood alcohol) mixed in so folks can't drink it. But I could be wrong.

[Random Nonsense]

Originally posted by dimmreaper
It sounds like denatured alcohol to me. Basically ethanol(which is the stuff in wobbly pops that makes you wobbly) with a bit of methanol(wood alcohol) mixed in so folks can't drink it. But I could be wrong.

Spot on, and it s birght purple and smells luverly. Doesnt stop people drinking it though!

[Orbit]

wood alcohol... isn't that the stuff that makes it hard to see, as in BLIND ? (not the normal hard to focus effects of ingestible alcohol)

The acute toxicity of methanol by ingestion, inhalation, and skin contact is low. Ingestion of methanol or inhalation of high concentrations can produce headache, drowsiness, blurred vision, nausea, vomiting, blindness, and death. In humans, 60 to 250 mL is reported to be a lethal dose. Prolonged or repeated skin contact can cause irritation and inflammation; methanol can be absorbed through the skin in toxic amounts.

From the HHMI Safety Lab

I think I'd rather drink a Coors (pronounced Sewers by some)

[dimmreaper]

Methanol is a strong poison, there is not a kind of tissue in your body that it does not damage. Anyone stupid enough to drink it in high doses gets what they deserve . . .

[Kaitain]

Ok, quick chemistry info. Isopropyl alcohol is not denaturated alcohol, nor wood alcohol. It's a heavier molecule altogether.

Isopropyl alcohol, (modern SI name is propan-2-ol, and old wives name "rubbing alcohol") is of this form: CH3-CHOH-CH3 (Empirical formula is C3H8OH)

Ethanol, by comparison being CH3CH2OH (or C2H6O if you don't like structure in your life).

Methanol (CH3OH) is indeed the major product of fermenting wood pulp, but significant quantities are produced in the normal brewing process... especially in the production of lagers. Look at that list of effects of methanol consumption and you'll see the worst effects of your worst hangover there (except for the death - ethanol will get you first).

Part of the reason for the toxicity is that the metabolic process by which the body disposes of primary alcohols (alcohol group at the end of the carbon chain) is to oxidise them to aldehydes. Ethanol goes nicely to ethyl aldehyde (ethanal), but Meths is disposed of as formaldehyde. Very nasty stuff.

Not quite sure what the body does about secondary alcohols like isopropyl alcohol. If it oxidised that in the same way, it would form acetone (propan-2-one). Don't think it would want to do that, somehow.

Anyway... 3 different molecules. All alcohols. All toxic in different amounts.

First CPU I ever fitted I cleaned with vodka

[dimmreaper]

So why then does urin smell like alcohol the day after doing some heavy drinking? Does some of the alcohol pass through the system without being oxidised?

[robbie]

Originally posted by dimmreaper
So why then does urin smell like alcohol the day after doing some heavy drinking? Does some of the alcohol pass through the system without being oxidised?

Hummmmmm Pinky and I will have to test that theory.
Rob

[dimmreaper]

I assure you, it's quite true Rob, especially with 190+ proof corn liquor.

Though judging from the effects of methanol ingestion listed above, the fact that my brew makes you black out after two tall shots, and the fact that it leaves you with a nasty hang over, I'd guess that fermenting corn ground up cob and all was not a bright idea and that it produced a lot more methanol than I thought it would.

I'll have to check on the boiling points of ethanol and methanol and see if I can optimize the still temperature or something along those lines next time.