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| CRASHED! A topic for SEVERE and immediate Hardware and Operating System FAILURES. We will try to get you up again. NOT for Optimization questions! |
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| Hey, 2 days ago I managed to instantly kill my PSU using nothing but a 3.5" floppy drive. Look at the attached picture. Remove the FDD connector, move it one pin to the left and reattach. Press the power button and watch the lights go out in your room :S --------Disclaimer!------ Wolf2000me is only responsible for wasting his own expensive PSU ![]() edit: It was an OCZ modstream 520W.
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| Sad to hear that dude hope it wasn't super expensive.
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| It was a big sleep. The electricity on several rooms here upstairs fell out. After I switched back the electricity in the rooms my machine did nothing anymore. With a new PSU i'm okay. Every other component of my system is okay. Even the floppy drive is still working as it should ![]() I tested my damaged modstream but nothing helped. I paid 116€ for it last year.
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| !! The PSU should NOT have failed that way - basically, it sounds like the high voltage side of the PSU failed and shorted out the mains. If it's still in warrenty, I would return it. If not, I would speak to OCZ about it. A short on the output of the PSU should never cause that kind of catastrophic failure!
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| In case you're wondering, here's what OCZ say on their tech specs for your now dead PSU. Quote:
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![]() I've been breaking several things lately which voided warranty that i kind of added this one to the pile already ![]() Thanks man
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| Ouch! Sorry to read about this catastrophe. The power plug on the floppy as well as the connector for it are keyed, I guess this doesn't prevent one from connecting only three pins though. Call me old and slow, but it just doesn't pay to hurry.
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| Does it look like this?
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| Stick a paper-clip through the fan and use it to try to rotate the fan blade (because the fan has frozen up). If you do it enough times, you'll short the heat-sink on the switching FET to the case and blow the PSU. Don't ask me how I know that. ![]()
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| For 115v systems, the 115/230v switch is fairly harmless. In the 115v position, it connects to a full wave bridge rectifier which effectively acts as a voltage doubler. In the 230v position, it connects to a half-wave rectifier and passes the voltage directly in. This means that the internal switching regulator is always running from something in the area of 160-240v, depending on what input configuration is like. If you have the input switch set for 230v operation but plug in 115v, the input voltage is passed straight in, the switcher gets what effectively amounts to a brown-out condition and shuts down. Now, if you have the input switch set for 115v operation but plug in 230v, the input voltage goes through the voltage doubler and becomes something around 340v or so, and blows the switching transistor and associated logic. Pretty lights, lots of blue smoke everywhere, and the PSU no worky no mo. A lot of the better PSUs either have automatic input voltage sensing and switching or are designed to operate across the entire input voltage range between 115v and 230v (some of the ones I used to design would operate continuously from 90v to 260v; meeting the German TUV regulatory requirements on those was murder).
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| From the PSUs I have disassembled so far, I've noticed that they're designed to put a voltage of approximately 340V across two capacitors in series. If you're in a 230V country and you set that switch to 115V, that means those poor capacitors end up with about 650V across them. From PSUs I've seen that have had that happen, the insulation in the capacitor usually fails first, shorting out the mains...
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| Guys, I've done the floppy power trick several times with much cheaper power supplies and they always shut down. I'd be a little suspicious of the (complete lack of) short-circuit protection on that particular PSU and RMA it due to failure, since, well, it did fail.
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