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CRASHED! A topic for SEVERE and immediate Hardware and Operating System FAILURES. We will try to get you up again. NOT for Optimization questions!


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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 15th September, 2002, 07:37 PM
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Unhappy A7V333 + 1700+ = No hair left

I have just shelled out on a new case, A7V333 raid, and 512Meg of 2100ddr.

When I first assembled with my 1700+ , GE4TI4400 (Asus) , Netware NIC and 80gig Seagate it would not boot. Tracked problem down to PS. Replaced with my old 350watt supply, and it booted fine.

However while it runs ok now, will browse, d/l, run music and video, it just turns itself off as soon as I try and run a game.

Times it crashes are; sometimes in the bios, mostly when I try and install, always when I try and run a game,(as the splash screen comes up, before the game actually runs).

Word and Excell run ok, as does IE, outlook express, and battlecom.

The machine just turns itself off with no message, and when i turn back on using the switch, I get the "System failed CPU test" message.

If I turn off at the wall, then re-boot it fires up fine.

Bios reports the CPU runs at around 61°C/board 29°C

I can't load the monitoring program to see temps on the run as it crashes the machine.

CPU + HD + Graphics + NIC ran fine with my Soltek SL75KAV.

Running in jumperless condition, big desk fan directly onto CPU/cooler, win 2K.

Anyone any ideas, before i throw this baby out of the window?
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Old 15th September, 2002, 08:15 PM
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First thing I'd do is get those temps down!!! Do you run with the side of your computer case on? If so take it off and see if your CPU temps drop (they should) If they do you'll have to work on better case ventilation.

You might have something built into your bios to shut the computer down if it reachs a certain temp. If your temps DON'T drop down a bit you may want to double check and see if you mounted the HEAT SYNC on probably (they only go on ONE WAY correctly)

I hope this helps
Rob
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Old 15th September, 2002, 08:24 PM
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thanks for your reply,

Hmmmm... i did wonder if the bios was cutting it out on temperature grounds.

The case side is off and I have a large desk fan blowing on the CPU area. (CPU temp only alters around 2°C if this is turned off)

When you say the heat synk, this is the large finned metal sink on the CPU. if so the clip will only allow it to mount the one way.
it seems to be on ok.
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Old 15th September, 2002, 09:46 PM
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All I can say is just make sure you have the via 4 in 1s installed.
Latest drivers from nvidia.com
get a program called cpu burn in, that will test all aspects of cpu making sure none of it is defective, I once got a duron where all the MMX instructions were bust.
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Old 15th September, 2002, 10:18 PM
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DENT BURN IT IN IF YOUR TEMPS ARE THAT HI!!! Seems to me that you might be a little new to this so I'm going to try to "explain" it to ya.

The heat sync can go one two different ways. One of them is wrong. Please take the heat sync off and look at the bottom of it. Notice the cut out in it?

Now look down were at the ZIF socket. (thing the cpu goes into) You'L notice that there is a raised part (the part that says zif socket on it)

Line the cut out of the heat sync with the raised part of the zif socket. I assume that your running a stock heat sync? (the one that came with the chip if you got it retail)

If so, I (and every one else in the forum) would recommend that you get a better heat sync. Just about everyone LOVES the Thermright AX-7 cost about $25 (be sure that you get a good fan as they usually don't come with one)

Get some good thermal paste. Artic Silver III is pretty much the way to go. If you got to any "good" computer store. (artic silver II will do if you can't find III)

TAKE THE THERMAL PAD OFF. Most stock heat syncs come with a thermal pad (that sticky thing on the base of the heat sync) Remove it and clean it up with some rubbing alcohol.

Apply the ASIII (as per instructions on www.articsilver.com) Install heat sync the "proper" way and power up.

I'm SURE you'll notice your temps drop down by at least 10 degrees.

Let us know how it works out for you.
Rob

BTW welcome to the forums. After you get your temps under control check out our folding section!!!
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Old 16th September, 2002, 04:25 AM
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If you have windows 2000, shutdowns like that are basically what a BSOD was in windows 98. I too would point to temperature as the problem. Get better cooling FAST.
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Old 16th September, 2002, 07:38 PM
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You are da guyz!

You were right, i had the heatsink (coolermaster) on the wrong way round.

an adjustment, and a smear of thermal paste later and its now 45/26°C

Its stopped crashing, and is useable.

THANKS GUYS, especially Robbie.

now if i can just get the fsb running at 333 instead of 266 lol:clown:
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Old 16th September, 2002, 09:40 PM
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Welcome to AOA's forums, Brimstone!

I love happy endings. WTG, robbie and Brimstone!
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Old 17th September, 2002, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brimstone
You are da guyz!

You were right, i had the heatsink (coolermaster) on the wrong way round.

an adjustment, and a smear of thermal paste later and its now 45/26°C

Its stopped crashing, and is useable.

THANKS GUYS, especially Robbie.

now if i can just get the fsb running at 333 instead of 266 lol:clown:
Nada prob, that's what we are here for. I'd check your memory. I don't think 2100 will do 333 but I could be wrong.
Rob
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Old 17th September, 2002, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by robbie


Nada prob, that's what we are here for. I'd check your memory. I don't think 2100 will do 333 but I could be wrong.
Rob
Some of the better PC2100 will do 333. You will need to big time overvolt it though. Usually 3V or more. I need 3.2V to get Crucial to run at 348 for any length of time.
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Old 17th September, 2002, 02:44 PM
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Crucials good stuff. I had 2X256 PC2100 running at 180 with 3.0V but it needed 3.1 to make it totally stable
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Old 18th September, 2002, 04:44 AM
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Get proper cooling above 3v or it will COOK
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