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| You can't kill your Mobo by only messing around with some settings. But you might need to get another bioschip ![]() It can happen that your bios gets corrupted when you're experimenting with your settings for too long - it happened to me once. Really, the only thing that could possibly be corrupted is your bios...
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| Thanks for your reply. I was beginning to suspect the BIOS chip as well. C1 indicates memory error, to the best of my knowledge. But I tried with a different stick (One that I know works in another machine), and problem was the same. Funny thing is, with my Barton in it it says "C1". When I put and old Duron 800 in it, it says "FF". Where do I go about getting a new BIOS chip? |
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| I've used 8RDA+ mobos in the recent 3 PC's I've built for friends, I'll try to get hold on one of them and his PC. Thanks for the suggestion, I haven't really had time to pay much attention to hot flashing, but I'm reading UB's fine article right now. |
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When you turn on the computer does it try to access the floppy drive at all? If so, then you can reflash your bios chip, albeit "blindly". I'm not gonna go into detail on the exact switches and creating a batch file, but if your computer seeks to the floppy drive at all you are fine. Also, remove the motherboard from the case. Then only have the floppy drive, PSU, chip/hs etc.. Bare essentials connected, make sure CMOS is cleared, and power on. If you search around, you should be able to find an already pre-set batch file and of course the 8rda bios bin file from the website. Basically if it will read a floppy it is using the write protected boot-block portion of your bios chip. This allows you the chance to flash the EEPROM back from corruption. The disk should be a bootable disk, that contains the awdflash program, the 8rda.bin file, and a batch program either created by yourself or downloaded with the proper command line and switches to execute the flash with one simple command. If all goes well, it will flash, then reboot (if that switch is put into the batch file), and your good as new. If the boot-block of your EEPROM is bad as well, then a hotflash is the only way you can go about it (easily). With the same boards, it's just a matter of using a good chip to boot into dos with, and then popping your "bad" chip in and running the flasher. Good luck
__________________ AMD 2100+ XP::Week 48 (AIUHB)::191x11@2101Mhz//EPoX 8RDA+//Corsair PC3500XMS 256x2(512Mb)@386mhz::4-2-2-2(Cas)//MSI Geforce 4 Ti4200 128Mb *Stock*//60GB Maxtor UATA-133//19" CTX//Altec Lansing 2100//Volcano 9 HS--ThermalTake SmartFan II@4800rpms::77Cfm//Temps:: (34C)Idle (38C)Load |
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I'm afraid it doesn't check the floppy nor show anything on the screen at all. It powers up, and goes to "C1" right away. Then a few seconds after, the siren goes on. Tomorrow I will give yet another stick of RAM a shot, but if that doesn't help I'm gonna either hot flash or get a new chip. |
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Having it post a C1 code, and an audible siren means you have a fighting chance ![]() Have you taken it down to the bare essentials like I said? Move the ram to all different slots, try 1 stick, 2 sticks, etc. Also, power the computer off, then unplug the AC from the back of the PSU. Plug it back in, then hold down the insert key on your keyboard. While holding down insert turn on the computer, you can tap it really fast as well. If it doesn't do anything right away, keeping holding/tapping insert and pressing the reset button a few times. Sometimes this will get you out of the woods. What does it do with the RAM out? Have you taken your battery out of the machine for 30mins? Have you checked the powersupply rails? The Power Good line? Have you unseated and reseated everything? Is the MB out of the case? Try any and all combinations of things. ![]()
__________________ AMD 2100+ XP::Week 48 (AIUHB)::191x11@2101Mhz//EPoX 8RDA+//Corsair PC3500XMS 256x2(512Mb)@386mhz::4-2-2-2(Cas)//MSI Geforce 4 Ti4200 128Mb *Stock*//60GB Maxtor UATA-133//19" CTX//Altec Lansing 2100//Volcano 9 HS--ThermalTake SmartFan II@4800rpms::77Cfm//Temps:: (34C)Idle (38C)Load |
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And thanks again for your time and help.Quote:
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![]() It's just a matter of ruling out any and all possibilities. Do you have any other AMD chips you could put in the board to test? Any other equipement to swap across? Another board? etc.. The reason I'm saying this, is because it is attempting to go through the post and seems to be hanging on the RAM check code, rather than a completely unresponsive F, or FF code. Best of luck
__________________ AMD 2100+ XP::Week 48 (AIUHB)::191x11@2101Mhz//EPoX 8RDA+//Corsair PC3500XMS 256x2(512Mb)@386mhz::4-2-2-2(Cas)//MSI Geforce 4 Ti4200 128Mb *Stock*//60GB Maxtor UATA-133//19" CTX//Altec Lansing 2100//Volcano 9 HS--ThermalTake SmartFan II@4800rpms::77Cfm//Temps:: (34C)Idle (38C)Load |
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| Ok ok, I'll remove the board from the case. But I have to take out the WC equipment first, so it might totalt to 10 mins of work! ![]() As written above, I've tried with different RAM, different CPU's, different Video card etc. When I put in a Duron it says "FF" though. Thanks again! |
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| I would think that its your barton giving you the prob....does your duron boot-up completly fine??? If it does try the barton in another rig
__________________ Epox 8rda------------------------- XP 1800+ 'A' @ 1.93 (183x10.5)---- Samsung PC3200 DDR - 512mb----- 7-3-3-2.5------------------------- 60g Barracuda ATA IV-------------- GF4 ti4200 (getting a 4400 soon)--- |
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| So does FF also stand for an error code....why would they ever mix an error code + a successful boot display message??? I'm just going by probability in my mind - seems a lot more likely you screwed your cpu then your bios chip..... good luck
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The RAM and CPU were the first things I found replacements for, but that didn't help. |
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| lol its certainly NOT your CPU or one of the Durons would work... Anyways, you couldn't have killed your Barton with 1,725V lol I was running mine @2,05V for quite a few month actually... --->BIOS or mobo
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