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| Hey! The biscut cutter is one of my favorite tools.
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| Heh, it works fine enough for us!! More pictures. First few show the biscuit jointer machine and the peices I was biscuit jointing. Then, a picture of the tube that will act as a pivot and the tool called a step used to create a thread in the ends of the tube (we shoved a plastic bush in each end) for the screw to run through. Then a picture of the screw in the end of the plastic bush on the tube. Then a shot showing the compleed biscuit joint cuts in the side panel.
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| Sash clamps being sued to clamp one side panel to the base using the biscuit joints. Note the center divider. Next, the other side panel is attached. The whole thing is gleud up and sash clamps hold it in place. Note the screw holes in the side panels. Then, a picture showing the clamped up base unit with the pivot pole in place and screwed in. The next picture shows one of the lid side panels attached to the pivot, before having it's corner cut to a radius. This was a test fit. The next picture shows two of them in place. In the background you can see one of the lid surfaces, before being cut down to size. The last picture shows a mock up fit of a lid surface to each lid side panel. This section is then gleud up and attached to the base unit. Since these pictures, each side lid section has had the corner cut to a radius to amtch the raidus of the lid surface. Both lids have now been glued, and test fitted to the base unit.
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| Having no similar skills, I find this a fascinating project! Thanks for sharing it with us A.P.!!
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| No problem! By tomorrow, it will be finished apart from the varnishing. Pictures will arise!
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| Today I cut up a peice of wood to make feet. I then drill holes in the wood and bolt it to the table, pinching the table and the leg together between two nuts, a shiny attractive brass one for the inside of the table and a normal nut at the bottom. For the bottom, I needed a recess so the nut could be screwed in using a socket and not protrude outwards. To do this, I again used a forstner bit. This is where things get dangerous. You must NEVER use forstner bits to drill into end grain wood. Why? We're talking friction so heavy, you can set the wood on fire. Plus, if it's not secured, it can rotate and cause serious damage. We're talking a peice of 10cm cube wood spinning at the speed of a drill. So guess what happened then. As I was drilling into the end grain using a forstner bit, it began to smoke. Soon, we were engulfed in a cloud of black and grey smoke but my teacher merely yelled, "carry on!" Trying to secure the wood whilst drilling was a problem. I tried using a 12 Kilo peice of metal to stop it spinning with the drill. Beleive it or not, the drill was so powerful the wood simply rotated and knocked a 12Kg peice of metal onto the floor. There is now a dent in the wooden floor where it hit. I managed them in the end without killing anybody or setting my hands on fire. But I strongly advise that if you ever do woodwork, you Never Ever use a forstner bit in endgrain unless your a trained professional. It's incredibly dangerous.
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| Don't they have a vice to secure the wood? Were you using a drill press or a hand drill? And how did you get that nice bend in the table top? Is it a vener over dimensional lunber that was softened in a steamer box then bent into shape? Or is it plywood that was steamed and then bent? And if so how did you keep the plywood from delaminating? Or did you simply make relief cuts in the back side of the plywood and then bend it around a frame? Anyway it looks good.
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| It was laminated around a 90 degree mould/frame, the 90 degree part being rounded off to a radius. Then it was simply layered and glues, then held in place using vices. It is a perfect lamination. No steaming is really required. The plywood was kept from delaminating by the glue (Cascamite) , of course. There are pictures of this in the first page. I was using a pillar drill. Which is basically one of these. http://www.bennetts.com/site/media/i...38_GDM120B.jpg They are extremely powerful - they make hand drills look weedy in comparison. I could have clamped it, but our G-Clamps weren't big enough. Thank you - I think it looks good too! Wait until you see high res pictures of it complete. However, that will have to wait 3 weeks until after the Easter Holidays.
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| Look here for info on how I moulded the veneer. http://www.aoaforums.com/forum/382220-post3.html
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| What's inside the black plastic? What type of wood is it? Barrel ply?
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| Normal 2mm ply lamianted to a 6mm thickness. Inside the black plastic is the mould. You can see the basic structure of the mould, but without its radius and without it's supporting beams, on the first page near the top. The black plastic is there to protect the wood from sticking to the mould, in case any glue leaked out.
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| Nearly finished all the paper work! On thrusday I'm back at College, where I will fix on the feet. Then it will all be varnished and final pictures will be up for you all to see. IMPORTANT NOTE ARE YOU A PROFESSIONAL WOOD-WORKER? HAVE YOU EVER WORKED IN A FURNITURE FACTORY? If so, I need your professional feedback! Please let me know Asap! Thanks.
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| The Table is complete. Pictures coming VERY soon. Hold your breath!
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| Thanks! Pictures coming tomorrow!
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| Well, here it is. I hope you like it. If people want their own one, I could show you how to make it and provide you with the neccessary details and instructions. I can't myself as I don't have the tools. |