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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 07:18 PM
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"No one told him about her"

"She's been the ruin of many a poor boy and God, I know I'm one."

It hurts less when we sing...":O}
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 07:30 PM
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I'm not responding to that one
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 07:40 PM
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I admire your restraint!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 08:20 PM
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now I know how you made it to 40K posts...
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 08:32 PM
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lol
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 09:52 PM
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If you check the average length of my posts you will also know why I didn't break 80,000!

(I kept waiting for people to complain in mass...But now I think most have set the Forums to ignore me. Sensible people. What's wrong with you guys? Why are you still here? LOL)
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel ~ View Post
But now I think most have set the Forums to ignore me. Sensible people. What's wrong with you guys? Why are you still here? LOL)
Ignore you? How do I do that?
Just kidding Dan
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2012, 10:09 PM
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And he felt the chilling mist descend across his slumping shoulders as he faded into darkness..

or


I know ":O}
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Ignoring half the conversation above this post...

Quote:
Originally Posted by booman View Post
Its probably something to do with flicker rates. Just like CRT Televisions or fluorescent light bulbs. They all flicker and usually a small device that records video will have a conflicting refresh rate so you can see the flickering.
Am I right Aedan?
Ok, as you asked, I'm afraid you're wrong.

Most IR remotes operate with a carrier around 30 to 40KHz. That means, when they're actively transmitting IR, it's a much higher frequency than can be seen by the sensor in a camera. You might ask how they ended up at that frequency - remember that early remote controls were ultrasonic!

In terms of the camera, both CCD and CMOS sensors are sensitive far more than just visible wavelengths of light. Manufacturers put IR filters in front of the sensor to restrict the amount of IR entering the sensor. This is fine and well for normal situations. However, putting an IR remote control in front of the camera isn't a normal situation, and some of the IR makes it through the filter to the sensor. This then shows up typically as a light blue colour.

If you google "Removing IR Filter", you'll find lots of stuff about people removing their camera's IR filter to take IR photos.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Well, it was worth a guess...
I did look at the remote with the camera and it was flashing light blue.
Does that mean the remote works?
if so, then I'm in deeper problems because that means the hardware in the subwoofer is broken.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 04:54 PM
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If it makes you feel any better, and it should not, I thought you were right Boo!! ":O}
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Justice is foundation and Mercy ETERNAL
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booman View Post
Well, it was worth a guess...
I did look at the remote with the camera and it was flashing light blue.
Does that mean the remote works?
If it's flashing blue, then it's sending an IR signal.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Thats settles it. Something is wrong with the electronics in the amp.
What should I do now?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Does it have a fuse?
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."
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 09:38 PM
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I don't know... why?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 09:52 PM
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Might be blown and replaceable.
Or do other symptoms precluded this? ":O}
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Justice is foundation and Mercy ETERNAL
."
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 09:54 PM
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lets just say that it had pre-existing symptoms that probably fried the amp.
I read that it has bad capacitors that cause a "white noise" hissing sound.
It only gets unbearable after 2 hours.
I imagine that they finally gave up the ghost.
I took the sub apart and could see all the caps. Too many for me to diagnose. And there is an exposed power supply that I didn't want to touch. Out of my expertise!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Yeah...I'd cut the line on this one. Lot's a good deals these days online....Sigh...
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Justice is foundation and Mercy ETERNAL
."
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 24th August, 2012, 10:01 PM
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oh you know me... I don't give up that easily.
Its a perfectly good working speaker and satellites.
So, I may be able to convert it all with a new amp of some sort.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 25th August, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booman View Post
lets just say that it had pre-existing symptoms that probably fried the amp.
I read that it has bad capacitors that cause a "white noise" hissing sound.
It only gets unbearable after 2 hours.
I imagine that they finally gave up the ghost.
I took the sub apart and could see all the caps. Too many for me to diagnose. And there is an exposed power supply that I didn't want to touch. Out of my expertise!
The power supply lines need to be relatively clean in order for things to work. Enough noise on them can cause stuff to stop responding, including IR. General troubleshooting should start at the power supply end, on the basis that if there's a problem there, nothing else is going to work right.

I've no idea what the specs for the power supply actually are, although I suspect that there will be at least a power amp supply and a logic supply.
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