A few parts questions

BobRoss · #1 (**permalink**) 30th April, 2008, 09:38 AM

This is my first attempt at an Intel OC. I have settled on an E8400 and I want to basically do what Weldzilla did. I will settle for anything around 4ghz out of it on air. That’s my short-term goal. But I have a few parts questions. I would like to know if there is a motherboard that is basically the same as the P5KE but without the wifi? Or is there a better one in that case? I am not looking to break any records or anything like that. I’m just looking for a user friendly board that is easy to work with, but I don’t really want it to have wifi on it.

Also what is a good processor cooler for this setup that will be ok hanging off the side of the chip while it is vertical in the case? What are people using with good results lately?

BobRoss · #2 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 08:57 AM

ok so after looking harder at newegg I realize that the P5K-E comes in wifi and non wifi. I assume that the non wifi has the same controls as the wifi board.
So unless anyone knows of a better board for around $150 I guess i will go with that.
What about a cooler though? Any thoughts on the ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro? I have been using the Thermaltake Big Typhoon coolers on the last three builds I have dome and I like them but they seem heavy and i feel like since they stick out so far from the board there is a cantilever deal going on and I am just not sure that they are staying mated to the heat spreader flatly. So I want one that stays in a little closer. Ideas?

ccperf721p · #3 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 09:36 AM

The P5K-E is a solid performer, 4 Ghz+ as far as the board is concerned will not be an issue.

I can't be of much help as far as the cooler is concerned, I haven't had a C2D on anything but water or the stock cooler.

cloasters · #4 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 11:38 AM

And the stock cooler is out of the question, maybe even running at stock? I read that HSF attachment(at least talking about the supplied retail HSF) with these procs is seriously messed up. Is this true?

MUff1N · #5 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 12:06 PM

I asked Weldzilla what air cooler he was using to get his 4+Ghz overclock on the 8400 and still have it running cool & this is what he told me...
It's the Scythe MINE CPU cooler...

Scythe MINE CPU Cooler

I like how the fan is sandwiched inbetween the cooling fins which gives it a push/pull config on the airflow & this way the fan wouldn't be in the way of anything either, but it would be harder to clean...

Abdul · #6 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 12:33 PM

I've got to say im a DFI fan.. so id say this is a kewl mobo..

Newegg.com - DFI LANPARTY DK P35-T2RS LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Intel Motherboards

My 2 cents. =D

ccperf721p · #7 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 01:10 PM

I had a p35 T2r for about month, while it is a good board, it clocks about the same as my P5K, clock for clock speeds are down just a touch on the DFI and it requires a lot more attention to detail than most are willing to put in.

Redroar · #8 (**permalink**) 1st May, 2008, 10:31 PM

That scythe mine is a beast, but beware that it's very tall. I had to take some diagonal pliers and lop off about a 1/4" of 2 of the copper heatpipes for it to fit. I had a fan on my case door and it couldn't quite cooperate. It's not hard. Just yank off the little cap looking things and cut the copper a bit.

If you don't have a side fan then you're golden, though.

BobRoss · #9 (**permalink**) 2nd May, 2008, 08:51 AM

I like the look of that cooler but is it heavy? Will it stay flat on the processor for years?

MUff1N · #10 (**permalink**) 2nd May, 2008, 02:07 PM

Took me a bit to find out that info...but here's all the specs on it that are important!

Scythe SCMN-1100 MINE Rev. B 3 Heat Pipes CPU Cooler

HS Dimensions in Centimetres: 105 x 105 x 150 mm
HS Dimensions in inches: 4.13 x 4.13 x 5.90 inches
Fan dimensions: 100 x 100 x 25mm
Weight: 560g (Light!)

• Noise Level: 22.0dBA
• Air Flow: 42.69CFM
• Speed: 1,500rpm
• Cable Length: 30cm
• Bearing Type: Sleeve Bearing

Redroar · #11 (**permalink**) 2nd May, 2008, 06:37 PM

It's aluminum mainly (not copper), which keeps weight down.

cloasters · #12 (**permalink**) 3rd May, 2008, 11:47 AM

Cut the ends off of the heatpipes? Wouldn't that wreck their cooling ability? Maybe I misunderstand Redroar's post?

skool h8r · #13 (**permalink**) 3rd May, 2008, 01:19 PM

The P5K-E Wifi is one of the most solid performers i've ever found. You CAN turn the Wifi off in the BIOS and it won't even be visible to Windows and won't transmit any signal. As for 4Ghz, HAH! Any E8400 Wolfdale that DOESN'T reach it is a cheap knock off. As for cooling, the Thermalright IFX-14 combined with any, even a quiet Xilence, 120MM fan are a perfect match for the CPU. I WOULD recommend that if you do go for that board, download the latest (1013) BIOS from the Asus site and use the Windows-based BIOS flashing tool to update it as it fixes a few issues including S3 resume issues and an incorrect voltage report/setting in BIOS. Although i can't reach the 4.5Ghz he has, i have managed 4Ghz with no problems and it's all running stable.

I have to say that these CPU's in particular benefit a LOT from being overclocked and score such as 3DMark05 will increase by a lot JUST by the CPU overclock.

Redroar · #14 (**permalink**) 3rd May, 2008, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloasters

Cut the ends off of the heatpipes? Wouldn't that wreck their cooling ability? Maybe I misunderstand Redroar's post?

There are nubs that extend about ~1/2" out of the ends of the fin assembly. I could not fit it into my case with the fan with them sticking out, so I removed about 1/3" off the nubs that extended beyond the fins.

I can't think of any reason it would significantly affect it's performance. It seems the nubs were mostly just there to keep the fins in place, but the other 4 which I did not have to clip hold it just fine.

booman · #15 (**permalink**) 12th May, 2008, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloasters

Cut the ends off of the heatpipes? Wouldn't that wreck their cooling ability? Maybe I misunderstand Redroar's post?

As long as the pipes are not punctured it should be fine to file em down a bit. Risky though because if you do puncture them, there is liquid inside that makes the copper piping so effective. Without the liquid you won't have any cooling.

BobRoss · #16 (**permalink**) 13th May, 2008, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booman

As long as the pipes are not punctured it should be fine to file em down a bit. Risky though because if you do puncture them, there is liquid inside that makes the copper piping so effective. Without the liquid you won't have any cooling.

I think though that if you did need to shorten the pipes you could cut them down and then squeeze the ends closed with some pliers and solder the tube shut. It looks to be like thats how they close the ends on most of the heat pipes i have seen. I would use high temp solder though. You wouldn't want to melt it with the heat of the CPU.

Redroar · #17 (**permalink**) 13th May, 2008, 05:42 PM

Well, with the Scythe it *appears* that it is pure copper at these tips. But if it seems to be a concern then a dab of solder onto crimped ends should put your worries to rest. On both the ones I cut (with diagonal pliers) I had no leakage or anything, and could only see copper...but I won't make any guarantees. If they changed it up a little so that the liquid went to the very tips then that could cause some major issues...so I guess you should just take my suggestion with a grain of salt.

It worked for me with no issues, but I guess it could cause a problem if they've made any manufacturing changes in the past 2 years.

cloasters · #18 (**permalink**) 13th May, 2008, 08:25 PM

Thank you all for the info!

Áedán · #19 (**permalink**) 14th May, 2008, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobRoss

I think though that if you did need to shorten the pipes you could cut them down and then squeeze the ends closed with some pliers and solder the tube shut. It looks to be like thats how they close the ends on most of the heat pipes i have seen. I would use high temp solder though. You wouldn't want to melt it with the heat of the CPU.

The problem is that the tubes typically contain a working liquid at a pressure other than atmospheric pressure. The pressure is very important, as altering it affects how well the heat pipe works. Typical lead free solder (IE, the majority used for electronics) doesn't melt until above 200C.