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Intel Motherboards & CPUs Questions or comments on INTEL products?


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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 23rd April, 2002, 06:20 AM
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changing default volt. on p3 850E secc2

i'm trying to find the upper limit for my CPU however my "softswitch" bios wont allow me go past a .2V increase
ive attempted several tricks to confuse to mobo about the CPU voltage but none have worked (flashing the bios w/ a custom voltage and the like) (has anyone thought about hacking the .bin??)
btw its a BH-6 old, but still great! so i want to either shut a few pins or open them whichever is needed i have the spec sheets so i dont need the pins i just need to know:
A. what you think the max safe volt for a p3 cumine is (i hope i shant reach it!)
B. methods for opening/closing pins (nail polish?)
C. something to the point of "**** are you thinking you idiot! <insert beautifuly easy solution here>" !

with any luck i should be able to hit 1.13ghz for longer than it takes to generate a kernel stop :-D
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Old 24th April, 2002, 06:05 AM
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Have you tried the pin trick on the pIII- where ou wire together two of the pins to increase the voltage that it can take? Surly Joe has the link (srry lost all of my fav when i reloaded.:-\)
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Old 24th April, 2002, 03:52 PM
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that actually is exactly what i was thinking

(hmm somone ought to remove the little smilies panel or i'm going to overuse and abuse them since theyre so much easier than actually *typing* them :devil: )
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Old 24th April, 2002, 06:02 PM
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If the pinout on the bottom edge of your CPU is the same as an original (C300A)Celeron's you can change the default Core Voltage to 2.2v by insulating three of the VID pins. Don't have time to look at which pins they are right now. Please post if this is the right info for YOUR P-III. Then I'll find it.
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Old 26th April, 2002, 05:02 PM
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i just finished carefully reading the intel spec sheet on my cpu and it seems that the "absolute max" (according to intel) is 2.1V for the core

i also looked that the VID pinouts (i'm assuming that by open they mean not connected to ground ie insulated and by connected grounded...) and i found that:
V VID0 1 2 3 4
-------------------------------
1.70 0 0 1 1 1 (default voltage)
1.80 0 0 1 0 1
(0=ground; 1=open)
thus if i connect VID1 to VID3 it would reset the default voltage to 1.8 (a voltage which i have verified to work) and allow me to get near the absolute rating while still letting me go back to spec voltages

question is how can i connect a wire? theyre pretty small to solder or anything and there is a lot of pressure on them while inserting into the slot
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Old 27th April, 2002, 04:33 AM
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Micro-soldering is definitely the sport of experts! In days of olde, the aforementioned experts built bridges between the VID pins. These obviously cleared the Slot 1 "trench" when the CPU was inserted into it.

It looks like the VID pinout of ancient C300A's in Slot 1 form factor are no longer applicable to P3E's.

Frankly, micro-soldering is beyond my ability. My solution for a C300A that needed 2.2v to run at 450 Mhz was to drill through the solder traces that led away from the proper combination of VID pins. This required magnification and a jeweler's hand drill. It was APITA, but knowing that insulation in the form of Teflon tape or paint could never fail on one of the VID pins(and thereby toast the CPU instantly) made the effort worth it. Some folks simply removed the right combination of VID pins entirely.

2.2v was the only practical choice. 2.4v could be attained by insulating a different combination of VID pins, but only fools wished to over-volt their CPU's by 20%. IMHO.

2.1 and 2.3 jolts were available too. They required "bridge" construction.

I imagine that a member of this BBS can perform this extremely delicate bridge building. Why not ask?

**Edit. Way back when, Intel used to list "Open" and "Closed" VID pins back*ssward! Make sure to read the fine print before assuming that "Open" doesn't really mean "Connected!" Yes, "open" means "NO Connection" in the real world, but Chipzilla is a law unto itself.
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Old 27th April, 2002, 08:38 PM
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DOH!

hehe every time i look that the spec sheet i notice some new....

the pins VIDO and VID3 are NEXT to each other!!!!!!!!! so if i use a whatamahcallit pen (sorry i truly cannot rember the word right now; the pens with conductive ink) to connect the two pins shouldnt that ground the open pin?

heres a crude (sorry- had to use paintbrush) drawing; do i have the pin labels right? (119 is VID3, 120 is VID0, 121 is one of the Voltage inputs and is the last pin on that side)
Attached Images
File Type: bmp untitled.bmp (5.7 KB, 71 views)
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Old 28th April, 2002, 11:02 PM
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Your pic ain't so bad, I've seen a lot worse. One thing to keep in mind is that there are two sides to the pins. It used to be "A" and "B." This was marked on the old Celly 300A's. One end of the row of pins said "A" or "B." The other end said "1" or "121."

I'm sure that you want more bragging rights with your box, we all do! But I would make absolutely sure that you know your exact pinout aka pin layout before doing anything.

That you haven't included if these pins as "A 119", or "B 120," as an example, causes a mildly furrowed brow here at the house that cloasters built.

As I posted earlier, Intel doesn't need to do things the way everyone else does. Imagine my shock when I learned that "0" meant "Connected" on an old C300A spec sheet. I hadn't picked up any instruments of destruction prior to reading that. If I had..... a dead processor would be mine. Who knows if the wrong VID connections would take the mainboard and PS with it? Wouldn't be the first time, I'm thinking.

As always(except in real emergencies)taking your time is more fruitful than rushing through an unfamiliar corner of The Techno Zone. Better to sit back and watch those benchmarks improve.

Or, rush through it and enjoy the smell of burning transistors, etc. Once witnessed, never forgotten. Ugly aroma!

Printed Circuit Board's have a tough transparent coating on their surface. You may be surprised how end user mucking about resistant the PCB that supports your CPU is. Excluding the eagerness of some Surface Mount Components to leap off the board if you frighten them by, say.. dropping a screwdriver onto the PCB. You'll need to get the epoxy, "shellac" or whatever it is off of the pins before attempting to bridge them.

Using a pen with conductive silver ink? First, make sure that your "bridge" will not be fouled by the Slot 1 "trench!"

I wouldn't trust silver ink to the job, personally. It's your machine!
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Old 28th April, 2002, 11:27 PM
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The easiest way with the old BH6 is the re-flash trick.
You set the voltage in bios to its max, re-boot to your flash floppy. Flash using the /cc /sn switches. When the flash is complete, exit using F10. Now re-boot utilizing the re-set, enter bios and set everything up. I beleive at this point you should have voltage options up to the 2.1v's.

This has worked for me any number of times. If, however, you are unable to acheive the desired result go to our D/L page and get a prog called Rise_of_Abit. there are probably two of these, get the one specifically for the BH6
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Old 4th May, 2002, 08:51 PM
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Cloasters - here's a laugh - the soldering on pins of slot processors is big soldering - micro soldering is trace soldering !!
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Old 5th May, 2002, 12:07 AM
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That certainly makes sense, EPoX Tech. Whatever you want to call it, it's a job too small for me. Heyell, Ah remember when PCB's had only one layer. And vacuum tubes. Gasp!
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Old 5th May, 2002, 08:30 AM
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hehe well i wish i could try lutawicasa's method (its very slightly different from the one i tried; i wonder which factor it is) but till my fan from spyder arrives i'm running without a CPU fan (bad; but barely okay with a 120mm fan cooling the case)

on a slightly off topic note the thermal sensors in the p3s really do work.... however since they reset the system instead of shutting it down they are useless..... (i "tested" this when i accidentaly left the 120mm fan unplugged for 10min..... i think it hit around 60C before reseting.. )

well since my cpu fan should arrive soon ill tell yall the results as soon as it does.... hopefully ill get 8.5x133= 1.13Ghz if all the other stuff in my comp can handle the 33% o/c (ram and vid should go but i'm worried about ISA sound, ethernet, modem)
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Old 5th May, 2002, 05:10 PM
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As Intel's P3 processors can't take the heat at anywhere near the temps that Chipzilla claims, I would not OC your P3E while it has no fan on its HS. Please, never contemplate running an AMD K7 with no fan!
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Old 5th May, 2002, 07:25 PM
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Your fans- ON its way :-D Worked fine on the system it was in! (My dell)
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Old 6th May, 2002, 03:50 PM
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the HS is still "cool " to the touch (only slightly warmer than body temperature) while runnning at 1.8V and a 124Mhz FSB however if i leave the 120mm in the door off it for more than ~8min it causes the sytem to crash and reset itself

hehe as for a K7 i wouldnt suggest running it with a fan either as ive burned myself on the heatsink while it did have a fan and was running at STOCK settings

alright spyder!!!! ill camp out by the mailbox till it arrives!

also wish me luck on the AP test i'm taking in 4hrs
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 7th May, 2002, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cloasters
As Intel's P3 processors can't take the heat at anywhere near the temps that Chipzilla claims, I would not OC your P3E while it has no fan on its HS. Please, never contemplate running an AMD K7 with no fan!
Ummmm..... my 600 has no fan on it......... only get warn to the touch- has a HUGE aluminum gateway heatsync on it- 92mm input and 80mm out put only :-D
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Old 14th May, 2002, 04:59 PM
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No update yet??
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Old 14th May, 2002, 05:34 PM
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sorry bout the time lag, ive been tested ROA and it seems to work but until the my replacement fan arrives i cant run my cpu at more than stock without worrying about electromigration and such (heat + high voltage) i did get the flashing trick to work for a .05 increase (thanks lutawicasa!) if i wasnt paranoid about bios flashing :nervous: i would see what exactly was different from the precedure i tried (i think it may be in the rebooting, but i dont know)

ill update with the results right after my fan arrives :-D
i wonder how many more f@h wus ill be able to do running at 1.13Ghz
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Old 14th May, 2002, 05:50 PM
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If the re-flash doesn't give enough voltage options you can simply repeat the process and this will increase the voltage again.
Wise choice waiting for proper cooling
Glad one or both methods have yeilded some positive results for you :-D
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Old 15th May, 2002, 06:26 AM
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DUDE they sent me the damn fan back!!! Apparently not enought postage or something- PM me your addy so i can send it out tommarow!
Spyder
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