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| Re-routing power-on buttons Okay, so, here's the plan. I'm planning on re-routing the power/reset buttons on a case which I'm planning on using for a Vegas-themed mod. Now, I'm looking at several switches. My favourite being; http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...19261&doy=11m2 Now, I'm just wondering; How difficult would it be to re-route these buttons? And how would I go about doing so..? Thanks in advance, guys.
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| A Vegas theme sounds like a fine idea.
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| Those switches are designed for carrying significant currents, and are designed around the idea that the current arc flash-over will act to keep the contacts clean. That's not going to happen in your application. Something like this would probably be better suited to your application. As far as rerouting is concerned, as long as you aren't trying to route them 10 meters or something you should be just fine to simply splice the wiring and lengthen it.
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| Cool, re-routing power/reset! Love to see how it turns out. Are you going to do animated leds like Vegas lights? You know...like the reclining Cowboy? Maybe you can do a tutorial so we can do it to
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| The old Switcheroo!! Hey Raphael I love the idea of moving your Power/Rest switches!!! that is why I did it long ago on WeldZilla-2c. C meaning the third incarnation of WeldZilla 2. Well I did it simply because if you don't know where the switch is you can't fire my computer and that is how I like it! On Matt's computer he uses the Password on the keyboard so the power switch does not work. That's an Epox. On my Asus I hid the Switches. Now I did not move fancy buttons I just have the actual switches that are located behind the buttons. Since WeldZilla 2 stands on legs I put the switches under the case. Here is a shot of the switches. The switches reside on the under side right in front of the bottom fan and about 1 and 1/4 inches in from the edge. The power is on the right and the reset on the left nearest the USB bracket I have mounted under the case also to give me quick access to 2 ports. The pictures will hopefully give you some perspective on all this blah blah. Other than Matt no-one has a clue cept you guys how to start WZ-2. I like it that way. I drilled to holes in the bootom of my case to run the switches through. Then I took a small piece of hardwood and drilled into it but not through it to accomodate switches and holt them in place I carved lines in the wood to allow wires to run to the switches with out getting squished. Then the block got screwed down to bottom of case locking the switches into position. The wires leve the motherboard and loop around out osf site fromthe board and you don't see them again. Well hey Raphael I will be looking forward to seeing your finished mod! WZ Last edited by weldzilla : 12th February, 2007 at 10:50 PM. |
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| Nope all your doing is momentarily connecting the two wires. Basically the same thing as touching the bare wires together....
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| As long as the switches are "push to make" or "momentary", and "normally open" (or N/O) then you should be ok. Basically that just means that whilst the switch is not being used, the two wires are not connected. Only when you press on the switch are the two wires are connected together. It doesn't matter if they're push button or rocker or any other kind as far as the electronics are concerned. Farnell have a pretty wide choice of switches if you want more choice than Maplin. I've rather given up on Maplin having much worth having, as their range has become progressively worse over the last fifteen years or so.
__________________ Last edited by Áedán : 13th February, 2007 at 09:36 AM. |
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| Well said guys most rocker switches are not momentary switches! Most make a connection between 2 wires and hold that connection. you DO NOT want that! Like, "Kansas" said in their song...." Only for the moment, then the moments gone". Raphael don't let your board become.."Dust in the Wind" WZ |
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