Just an idea I tried.. it's not a build thread. - Page 4

Azriel · #61 (**permalink**) 8th May, 2008, 04:56 AM

the corners are going to be bonded with a .062 thick half inch aluminum angle glued along them also. Forgot to mention that part. The front plate is going to have all it's edges lapped, and goes on last, after the 4 side plates are lapped together to a nice smooth flat surface. Things have gotten a little easier. I bought a table saw and slapped a 200 tooth blade on it for cutting the plastics.

The government gave me $600, and asked only one thing of me in return: Spend it. No problem,

Azriel · #62 (**permalink**) 8th May, 2008, 06:59 PM

This is a poorly cut piece that I wanted to work with before I used the actual rear end plate. I'm actually going to use 2 90 degree barbs when I do the real one. I have a straight one in the second hole atm, because they were too close together to install both angled barbs. One of those reasons for a test piece.

Drilling large dia holes in acrylic is not easy. First, you have a choice. grind a zero rake onto the bit and deal with heat, or leave it stock and deal with the chance of cracking. I chose to leave the bit alone, and only drill to 1/8" depth under power. At that point I shut off the drill press and turned the spindle by hand while holding the quill down to the part. It takes about 5 min to finish out the hole this way. After that, i just put the tap in a vise and cranked the panel onto it. When using a NPT tap (pipe tap) you need to remember not to crank it all the way to the end of it's threads. You want to stop about 3 threads shy, or you will have a loose hole, and it will leak.

When the final piece goes together, the pump will connect to the output barb with a 3/8 NPT male threaded 1/2" hose barb screwed into the ID of the 1/2 NPT, which just happens to measure exactly .562. (which is the tap drill size for a 3/8 NPT. Convenient, no?) For anyone who doesn't understand, the through hole on a 1/2" barb with a male 3/8" NPT thread will still be over .400" which is about the ID of the output of my pump, so this will not constrict the flow at all.

Azriel · #63 (**permalink**) 8th May, 2008, 07:35 PM

This is the window shape I'm going with. I also cut in one of the two 120mm floor fan holes today. I'll put up a pic of it when the second one is cut and the mirrored acrylic panel for the floor is ready.

Azriel · #64 (**permalink**) 8th May, 2008, 08:41 PM

I'm going to put 2 1/4" barbs in the reservoir for return lines from the chipset and VGA coolers, and just connect them to each other until I add them. I don't think it is wise to T the returns back into the main return line. Imo, this would cause the water in the smaller lines to just sit as the flow continues through the 1/2" circuit. I think it would be best to split the 1/4" lines out of the output up at the reservoir where pressure is at it's best, and let the 1/4" lines return to the reservoir without passing through the heater core.

Daniel ~ · #65 (**permalink**) 8th May, 2008, 10:46 PM

Ok, NOW your showing us something of the old Azriel! Way cooler than I thought as well!":O}

Azriel · #66 (**permalink**) 9th May, 2008, 04:25 AM

And the intake holes in the floor. The case is getting those glowy acrylic feet that directron doesn't sell anymore, but newegg still does, so there's plenty of clearance under the case for the 120's to breath. I lose 1 PCI slot for using these, but I think it looks cool. The mirror panel isn't on the floor around them yet. They are gonna look really sweet then.

I hate my blue CCFL's, but I decided to give UV CCFL's a shot. The lighting is going to be a hella bright hybrid of blue and UV. I'll use what I can fit in there. I have three 5-LED UV's, four 5-LED blues, and a pair of 12" UV CCFL's in the pile plus the 4 blue LED 120's. Remember, the windows are tinted. I want to try to use the leftover mirrored acrylic to bounce the light around. Atm, I'm planning on doing the floor and any other exposed flat surface I haven't cut a massive hole in. in other words, i won't be needing too much mirror.

I can't wait to finish all of the cutting on the chassis. I want to see the interior in blue metallic. I won't be needing a lot of blue paint either. It's only going on the surfaces that I can't put mirror on. I'm hunting junk boxes atm for those old shiny stainless slot covers. The bezel is fully cured, and ready for the flat black accents, but I want to wait until I'm ready to paint everything so I can mask it all at once, cut the seams and take it apart for paint. that way my lines will be perfect. Ypu're gonna like the paint methinks. I've put a lot of thought into it. The window shape gives away a little of it, but not really.

Azriel · #67 (**permalink**) 9th May, 2008, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daniel ~

Ok, NOW your showing us something of the old Azriel! Way cooler than I thought as well!":O}

Nah, "old Azriel" would have used mostly crap that he had lying around. This is new lazy Azriel determined to finish a project, but unable to stop adding to it. This whole thing started out with an epic fail on the heater core mounting, and I'm trying to make up for it.

Daniel ~ · #68 (**permalink**) 9th May, 2008, 08:53 AM

New technique, same approach? ":O}

Azriel · #69 (**permalink**) 14th May, 2008, 01:12 AM

Yes, I am still working at a snail's pace.

This is the main window opening. All those corners were a lot of fun. I cheated and cut 2x6 to the shape of each side, and clamped it down, I'm sure I would have mangled it if I hadn't. You don't really understand how much you need a good scroll saw until you have one. The scroll saw cut the wood, not the metal. The metal was all jigsaw, which is why i needed the wood in the first place. Jigsaws don't play nice with sheet metal.

One of you left coast coffee whores needs to procure me a new dutch bros. sticker imo. I got that one while I was living in Springfield Oregon.

Azriel · #70 (**permalink**) 14th May, 2008, 03:47 AM

the other side's window is going to be the same lines along the front and top edge, but just the L shape. No need to waste polycarbonate to show off the back side of the mobo panel. I'm tempted to open the 5-led lights and spread them out, probably won't though.

Daniel ~ · #71 (**permalink**) 14th May, 2008, 08:31 AM

I'm still watching! ":O}

Samuknow · #72 (**permalink**) 14th May, 2008, 09:25 PM

This is looking great so far.

I am staying tuned as well.

Azriel · #73 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 01:35 AM

Pics. I don't have the face plate on the reservoir yet. Seems to be working out so far. The area where the pump feet are superglued to the side wall looks like ass, and is going to be covered with a small piece of mirror. What do you think of my shameless backgrounding of winamp to make it look cooler?

Azriel · #74 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 05:04 AM

Be a good modder, or be a good photographer. I'm trying to be both, but I'm a little ahead on the camera work.

Samuknow · #75 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 05:47 AM

The tube on the inlet; is that there as a pick up tube?

What pump is that again?

I only ask because if it is a weaker pump, that inlet tube will decrease flow quite a bit. I tried the same on my old setup.

Azriel · #76 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 05:55 AM

It is, but i just did a little test, and that thing is going to cause problems. I'm taking it back off. It keeps air in the pump.

Daniel ~ · #77 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 08:08 AM

Looking very exotic! ":O}

Azriel · #78 (**permalink**) 15th May, 2008, 09:22 AM

Been doing leak testing, and damn did I ever make a pretty strainer. I'm going to stop by a pet store and get some fish tank sealant. I'm going to have to take the pump back out and seal it up. The leaks are small. But there really are no "small" leaks in a water cooled PC. 1 drop is HUGE.