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Guide: Adding Extra Run-Time to Your UPS - The Operation - Splicing
Written by Gizmo   
Monday, 30 January 2006 00:00
Article Index
Guide: Adding Extra Run-Time to Your UPS
The Operation
The Operation - Removing the Face-Plate
The Operation - Removing the Battery
The Operation - Opening It Up
The Operation - Exposed Wiring
The Operation - Changing Connectors
The Operation - Splicing
First Smoke Test
Build the Battery Pack
Build the Battery Pack - The Wiring Harness
Second Smoke Test
Reassembly and Final Configuration
Reassembly and Final Configuration - Calibration
Reassembly and Final Configuration - All Done
All Pages

Be careful when doing this, as placement is crucial! If you get the splice in the wrong place, you won't be able to replace the wire harness retainer we removed earlier. The best way to do this is to place the wiring for the battery connector back in the chassis the way it was (use the deformed insulation that you observed earlier as a reference for where the wire needs to go back in place). Hint, the closer you can splice to the board, the better off you will be. Just make sure that you leave enough room to get the electrical tape on in order to fully insulate the wires (you generally want to be able to wrap a full inch to either side of the exposed wiring).

Here, you can see that I have stripped insulation off the battery harness, and prepared the ends of the wire from the disconnect harness prior to splicing:


For this operation, I am using a little wiring trick I call 'threading the needle'. Basically, when you are splicing wire, you normally take the two wires to be spliced and twist them together. The disadvantage of simply twisting the wires together is that it requires you to strip a fairly large section of both wires in order to get a good splice. What I am doing here is actually forcing the strands at the end of the first wire BETWEEN the strands in the middle of the second wire. This prevents me from having to cut the second wire, or strip away a large amount of insulation to get a good splice. All I need is enough room to force the strands together. Then I lay the spiced wires together, solder everything up, and tape well. Make sure you have at least 4 layers of tape, and tape an inch on both sides of the splice. Once you have everything soldered and taped, take the ends of the black wires that have the pins on them, and insert them into your Anderson connector. Take note that the Anderson connector has a large '+' and '-' symbol stamped into the plastic. Make sure that the wire spliced into the red battery wire goes to the '+' position on the connector, and the wire spliced into the black battery wire goes to the '-' position on the connector. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If you get this part wrong, when you plug in your external battery pack, you will get the batteries cross-connected and THEY WILL EXPLODE!

Put your wiring harness back in place and re-mount the disconnect. This will now be your external battery connector. When done, it should look something like this:\


I hi-lighted the area where the wires splice together, and where the black wires are running so that you could see them better.

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