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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 23rd August, 2002, 02:39 AM
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Making a waterblock

Ok here goes my attempt to make a block :-D . I'm ordering the copper bar stock tomorrow. Any ideas are welcome.I'm not into poring one I'll mill it and solider or brazen it together .Design is what I need help with just for the block not the whole set up. I got some good ideas for the radiator , pump and res from you guys already. I'd like to use the clip method to secure too an Amd
socket mother board. It'll be a one piece unit no leaks that way. I'll mill out the channels and drop the sides of the base so the channels protrude threw the top and braze it all as one piece.
I will also make the hose fittings my self and secure them the same as the rest all one piece.Oh and what do ya think the thickness of the bottom and sides should be?Oh and I work in hundred thousandths you know standard not metric. They think I'm crazy at work and there right (lol). Boy's gotta have a hobby.

Thanks

Wats

P.S wats is faster than watsaru and I don't mind. BTW when I'm done with one I'm getting enough copper to make about 12 blocks. I'll send one or two to AOA to see how it works for them if they will let me I bet I beat Bruno in getting one out
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Old 23rd August, 2002, 03:06 AM
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dude! you making a P4 version????? Im doing a p4 roundup for spode- shoot one my way :-P
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Old 23rd August, 2002, 04:25 AM
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Will you be using a horizontal or verticle mill Wats?
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Old 23rd August, 2002, 12:41 PM
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Verticle Bridgeport . Spider I'm and AMD kinda guy p4 just cost way to much. The block has too be one I can use also. But I do have and old p3 coppermine @500mhz around here some place lol
I think it's on an old biostar board talk about suckie boards.
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Old 23rd August, 2002, 01:24 PM
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I think you should make it 2 piece, 1 piece doesn't guarentee no leaks, however it virtually stops modifications to the inside etc, or even cleaning


Also, i'd blast it if i were you, higher area, more efficient, blah blah
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Old 24th August, 2002, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by watsaru
Verticle Bridgeport.
Damn, all my better designs require the use of a Horizontal mill (I use an old Cincinnati) to make parallel micro-channels. You could always make an adapter to hold horizontal blades in a verticle machine's headstock if you have a lathe kicking around, but that's a bit of work for one block . . .

As far as vertically machined blocks, I've had decent results from 1" thick blocks with .125" wide .800" deep channels and .200" channel walls, using a twin-fluted roughing end-mill for jagged edges. You've got to mill a pocket out were the barbs screw in, but that's no biggie . . .

Like b0bb1nz said, sand blast the inside, it makes a world of differance . . .
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Last edited by dimmreaper; 24th August, 2002 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 24th August, 2002, 12:12 PM
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So the rougher the insides are the better? We thought at work that .125 for the bottom thickness would be about right. As far as leaks go I'll pressure test each one before it goes on my CPU. I was thinking what about auto coolant like peak or prestone? that should work right and it'll help keep it clean . I just don't like gaskets. oh what about overall hight how thick should this block be the bar stock 3 by 3 that's enough right?
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Old 24th August, 2002, 12:21 PM
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The ideal thing whilst making a block is to have a rough inside surface (therefore a large surface area), with quite turbulent flow, the two things you have to watch out for are making the flow too turbulent, resulting in high resistence and a low flow rate, and making it not turbulent enough, if you end up with streamline flow, the cooling is dramatically reduced
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Old 24th August, 2002, 12:36 PM
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I love the spell check lol. Anyway I was thinking of using a round ended mill so that I get an simioval channel and add little nicks or sandblast it like was suggested. When the water makes the turns turbulence will occur right I'm new at this so bear with me on this.
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Old 24th August, 2002, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by watsaru
So the rougher the insides are the better?
For the most part yeah. It is possible to have things a bit too turbulant with a bad channel layout, but you want the walls themselves to be quite rough to prevent laminar flow.

Quote:
Originally posted by watsaru
I was thinking what about auto coolant like peak or prestone? that should work right and it'll help keep it clean.
Best results will be obtained with a coolant that is mostly water. The only thing you might want to add is an additive to reduce the waters surface tension(like "Water Wetter" or "Purple Ice" available at auto parts stores), or just something to resist corrosion("Water Wetter" and "Purple Ice" will work, so will Antifreeze if you elect not to use one of the others). The key is to use mostly water, like 95% water. Other liquids just don't absorb heat as well, and don't absorb as much of it.

Quote:
Originally posted by watsaru
oh what about overall hight how thick should this block be the bar stock 3 by 3 that's enough right?
1"x3"x3" will make a nice hefty and efficient block. I highly recommend a base thickness of .180" to .200" . . .
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Old 29th August, 2002, 02:33 AM
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Do you guy's know how much copper cost .The cheapest I can get is 96.00 for 12" x 2"x2. So guess what (lol) i'm gonna make afew out of aluminum . We have lots laying around the shop.I'v also noticed that almost all mob's have four holes around the cpu's socket so i'm thinking of using those as a hold down for the block. I'v been looking at other blocks and they do this also.I haven't given up on copper yet . I just have to pinch a few pennies till I can afford to get enough so that if I mess up I have spair copper. OK so we want a 2 peice for cleaning and ect right so o-ring or gasket ? I can do a acrylic top also I'v seen those also
is that a good idea?
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Old 29th August, 2002, 02:54 AM
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why not just melt down some pennies!! he hee
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Old 11th September, 2002, 12:07 AM
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Pennies are tin with a copper plating I checked (lol). well I got the aluminum in and I'm sitting here with it now. I'm gona start on it tomorrow night. I know it took me forever to get it but I have it now. It's gona be a two piece . Alum bottom with a plex top and a o-ring to keep it from leaking (I hope).The reservoir I'll make myself out of plex and I'm not sure on a good pump yet (any ideas are welcome) I don't want to spend alot tho. I'v almost got the radiator done we had a window ac unit go bellie up so I got the front cooling (what ever you call it) lol out of it. It has large lines so I think it will do if not I'll make a copper one. The new Mobo I'm gona get has 4 holes around the cpu so I'm gona use those to hold it down with. Anyone know the demintions(I know my spelling sux) for those?
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Old 12th September, 2002, 03:12 AM
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Order the copper from onlinemetals.com.

Do you have a rough sketch of a design in mind?
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Old 12th September, 2002, 05:13 AM
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An 1.0"x3"x3" piece of flat copper bar stock is 37.90 . One foot of aluminum 1x3x12 is 17.00 I'd rather make a few of those then go for the copper . That way I'd have the design I'd want to go with kinda like a model to go by. And yes I have a few sketches how do I put them up I have a scanner. I have our shop all to myself this weekend we just finished a big job and now I have time to work on my little project. What do ya think of me making some little heat sinks for the board or what ever. I have some little pieces of aluminum laying all over the place for small stuff . Oh I already have the aluminum only cost me 10.00 from work and no shipping cost(VBG) I can get the copper there also around 80.00 for a 1' piece 1"x3" not bad a. If I can get this going I'll get a mini mill & lathe for the house . I see a need for affordable waterblocks .
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Old 12th September, 2002, 05:57 AM
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Normally half inch stock is adequate and for $90 you can get about five feet of 3" X 1/2" copper bar stock.

Mobo sinks are a good idea also.
Another thing is you will not be able to tell how your block will perform in copper by making it in aluminum first because the heatspread of aluminum is only about half that of copper.

If you scan a pic in then save it as a jpeg, you can show it on the web. If they turn out too large then you will have to resize them smaller first. If you don't know how to resize it then someone could do it for you through email.

You should be able to do just about any design with a bridgeport, keep us posted
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Old 15th September, 2002, 09:12 PM
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Yeah wats where are you pricing your metals? Go through onlinemetals. It's very cheap. I'm using the maze 2 as a template for size for my block which will be 2"x3 1/8"x1/2". I can get 12"x2"x1/2" thick for $18.55 and $15.37 for the 1/8" brass for the top. This will yield 3 blocks and a vid or chipset block.
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Old 16th September, 2002, 12:51 AM
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How are you mounting it? Ya that's where I'm gona go also. I never thought of using brass for the top I got loads of brass bar.
You going with a o-ring or a gasket?
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Old 16th September, 2002, 01:17 AM
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I'm going to solder the top. The mounting will be the four hole style. I'm using the dimentions of the maze2, but with my own channel design. I'll use some graph paper to draw the size and posistion of the four holes and also the channel design then transfer it over to the copper stock then using a center punch, mark where it needs to be drilled.
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Old 16th September, 2002, 02:13 AM
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You using your main board or you got a spear?
are the holes on like a 2"center ? What kind of milling machine you using . What kind of mill-end you using 2flute or 4flute ball end or flat? Most everyone I'v talked with here wants a 2 piece as i'v described above (gota give what they want lol) I'm planning on selling them on e-bay later on after I'v gotten a good design. I'll about 4 in total . One for my self and a few to give away . I'll need some input from other sources too see if there any good or not. I'll order the copper next week and get started as soon as it comes in . I was going to go with aluminum but was talked out of it here ( lol) sometimes I do listen it'll have a plex top with 6 screws to hold it together. I'm thinking of using a o-ring so others can mod my design if they want to.
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