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EPoX MotherBoards EPoX Intel and AMD Motherboards.


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Old 24th June, 2005, 03:15 PM
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need a replacement

I need to replace my 8RDA+ and want to know if I should get the 8RDA3+ or
the 8RDA6+ Pro? it will be oc'd with an XPM2600 and inside a Koolance case.
it will be Folding 24/7 just like 8RDA+ before the caps began to fail. Thanks,

Ron
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Old 24th June, 2005, 07:24 PM
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Hi Ron - I'd go with the addage - Socket A bad, Socket 754/939 Good in terms of an investment at this point. You never know - socket 754 may even outlive 939.
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Old 24th June, 2005, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabaerman
I need to replace my 8RDA+ and want to know if I should get the 8RDA3+ or
the 8RDA6+ Pro? it will be oc'd with an XPM2600 and inside a Koolance case.
it will be Folding 24/7 just like 8RDA+ before the caps began to fail. Thanks,

Ron
What did you ever do about the caps on your 8RDA+? And did you see the article I posted about that?
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Old 25th June, 2005, 05:51 AM
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wild_andy_c, all my kit is socket A at this time. as I sell off the Palamino cpu's, I may
invest in 939. me thinks 754 might be doable, but no A64 till Q4 for me/

gizmo, haven't found the caps yet. haven't seen the article, yet. I have been working
on my soldering. I have a 40W and a 25W. it is the desoldering that I find most
dificult.
off to read up on what you have wrtiien on the subject.

gizmo, where exactly did you put it?

Ron
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Last edited by dabaerman; 25th June, 2005 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 25th June, 2005, 06:14 AM
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Heres the article http://www.aoaforums.com/frontpage/i...=441&Itemid=33

Stick to the 25W for pcb work and try using a solder sucker when desoldering.

Theres a component puller with a fitting specially for caps that is basically a clothes peg with a pair of semi-circular rubber prongs on the end, and a pair of spring loaded standoffs. You push the standoffs in, and clamp it onto the head of the cap, then flick the standoffs loose, and it gently applies pressure against the PCB and pulls it outwards.

Take the two semicircular fitings off and stick on the flat ones for PVC caps, hooks for resisters, and all kinds of interesting toys. Dick Smith in Australia make them so possibly radioshack will have them.
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Old 25th June, 2005, 08:46 AM
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My iron is 65W and has the biggest tip you ever did see. LOw wattage irons aren't good for pro-work.

Hot air is the best for tooth extraction of caps - but not many people have a SMT station they can put on full juice to do it. In which case your 40W iron applied in repetition to the anode and cathode will sufice with patience.
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Old 25th June, 2005, 08:56 AM
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You really use a high wattage iron? Ive always tried to use the lowest possible to minimise the possibilty of damage / track lifts / plastic melting. I use a spoon point scope iron for PCB stuff and only go to high power for when it is really needed.
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Old 25th June, 2005, 04:11 PM
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As long as the unit is temperature controlled, higher wattage is better, particularly when trying to solder and desolder parts on large planes. I'm quite certain that Andy's is temperature controlled.
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Old 25th June, 2005, 05:09 PM
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OK, I was assuming you were talking about the straight 25 or 40 watt, iron and element only part without the temperature regulator
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